Junk Steering Box?

[the_engineers]

My current set-up is an Autozone reman. power steering box, Firm Feel quick-ratio arms, 225's for front tires, 11/16" C-Body tie rods and 1 1/8" sway bar.

The problem is, at times, the car just feels "lost" at the top of the wheel.  I can be running straight with good feedback, then all of the sudden, I'll have to turn the wheel by 1/8 to 1/16 of a turn (4 - 6") to find resistance.  In the meantime, the car will be heading whatever direction the road has dictated.  Doesn't seem like a lot, but it can be very scary at 60 mph on a narrow county highway.

I've recently had it aligned with no change to this phenomenon.  The only time I don't seem to fight it is on the Interstate.

The county roads aren't bad enough that I'd think that would be the issue.  Also, I wouldn't think a 225 is wide enough to tram.

Any thoughts?  I'm considering a Firm Feel box, but down't want to spend the money (right now) if I don't have to.  I've got several other places I'd rather see the money go at the moment.

[Chryco Psycho]

There is an adjuster screw on the top of the box which can be tighten withthe wheels centered & can remove most of the play
the Firm Feel or Steer & Gear box is a nice upgrade though 

[the_engineers]

There is an adjuster screw on the top of the box which can be tighten withthe wheels centered & can remove most of the play
the Firm Feel or Steer & Gear box is a nice upgrade though 

Did that.  The adjuster is tight right now to the point where you "just" have to help the wheel back after a turn.

Could it be the coupler?  It's the only part that hasn't been touched.

[Chryco Psycho]

the coupler will cause that too especially if the shoes inside the coupler are installed the wrong way

[the_engineers]

I think I'll order a coupler kit to be on the safe side.

Any other things to check?  I'm planning for FJM spindles and TUCA's this winter, so if I've got it apart...

[the_engineers]

With the motor off (no power assist), I can wiggle the wheel back and forth a fair amount (3"-4").  Would that probably be the coupler allowing the movement?

[Chryco Psycho]

could be either by being worn or assembled incorrectly , my 89 Cummins Dodge used to eat the coupler every 2 years or so but it had a Lot more stress on it with the Cummins engine & the big tires on it

[Moparal]

With the motor off (no power assist), I can wiggle the wheel back and forth a fair amount (3"-4").  Would that probably be the coupler allowing the movement?

Brooks, you can open your hood and roll down the window. Peak over as you wiggle the wheel. If the coupler has play in it, you will see it. Or even jack the left lower control arm up so the tire just clears the floor, grab the tire and wiggle it left and right slowly back and forth to see it the idler arm, pitman arm, or tie rods are a little worn. After that, you can take a 3ft pry bar and put it under the tire edge. Lift it up and down just a little. You can see if the lower ball joint has slack. Also see if your strut rod bushings are tight at the rad core support. When the rubber crushes a bit after use, sometimes you will get slack in them and this would cause the lower control arm to shift back n forth following the road some on uneven areas. 

[the_engineers]

I'll check the play tonight.  I suspect that's where it's at.

All of the suspension pieces are new(er) within the last 12 months and I have polygraphite everywhere, so "crush" shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks Al!

[the_engineers]

Here's a follow-up on this:

These two pictures were taken with the column unlocked and me turning the coupler by hand as far as it will go.

My sector adjuster screw is tighted to the point that I have to help the wheel return to center after a turn.

[Chryco Psycho]

well it is not the coupler , the actual shaft below the coupler is turning that far with the sector screw tightened so it is a problem inside the steering box

[the_engineers]

This box has less than 200 miles on it.  Love the rebuild quality (Advanced Auto, in case you're wondering)  I can take it back, but I'd rather buy a Firm Feel/Steer and Gear unit.  Oh well, one time expense and lesson well learned.

Wonder if I can just get my money back on this one...

[quagmire]

Sounds like you have a problem with the worm gear itself then, and I do not think our boxes have any provision for adjusting that.

Actually, I take that back.  They do have a spanner adjuster on the shaft, but that is probably not something you want to mess with unless you have the FSM and some special tools.  You'd need a very low scale 1/4" beam torque wrench and a spanner wrench among other things.  Still could be an internal problem though.

[the_engineers]

When I turn the shaft back and forth, you can actually see the input shaft move in and out.  Is that normal?

[quagmire]

No, likely the bearing inside failed or the worm shaft bearing preload is out of adjustment.  Unless the spanner adjuster nut is loose, the bearing is probably failing.  There should be no play since it is supposed to be under preload.