Electronic ign conversion

Author Topic: Electronic ign conversion  (Read 4028 times)

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Electronic ign conversion
« on: May 12, 2002 - 12:52:55 AM »
This is relatively easy, you will need a distrbutor from a similar engine eg. LA,B or RB series as they are all different, these can be found at the wreckers or local parts store rebuilt for a lot less than a new dist from Mopar. The lean burn distributors do not work as the have no provision for any advance mechanism

Be sure to check the air gap between the reluctor [8 point star on shaft]& the pickup, it should be about .008".

 You will need an ign control box /ECU, try to get an orange box part#4120505, a lot of Lean Burn cars were modified with factory kits so they are in the wreckers & are relatively easy to find

 Get a wiring harness from donor car, go from the 5 pin plug at the box & remove the wires out of the harness all the way to the distributor plug[usually brown & grey] remove the entire black /yellow trace wire , it terminates at the coil - terminal , remove the green out of the harness back to the ballast resistor, take the resistor & both plugs, cut off the blue wire on opposite end of the resistor from the green wire.]  This harness is also available new from Mopar part # P 3690152

  Installation is almost as easy. For use with 4 pin ECUs
First splice the blue wire from the 5 pin plug at the box into the dark blue wire that goes to your ballast resistor at the single wire teminal [ not the terminal where the blue & brown wires are together ]  

 Next hook up your black wire from the box to the - side of the coil & remove old wire to the points style dist [leave the grey tach wire if you have this]

 You do not have to hook up the green wire For 4 PIN BOXES  all newer replacement & performance boxes are 4 pin.

 Then remove the distributor cap & the dist hold down, note where the rotor is pointing &  swap your dist.

 Plug the distributor into the harness from the ECU

 The last step is to mount your ECU ,make sure the box is grounded by mounting screws, if you want to hide the ECU you will probabaly need to extend the lenght of all the wires in the harness
 
 Now you need to start the engine & reset your timing & GO PLAY   ;D

 For 5 pin hook up the green wire will be connected to the plug @  the donor ballast resistor

 The blue wire on the other end of the donor resister needs to be spliced into the same dark blue wire used on the 2 pin ballast  12v switrched power

 The the existing brown wire to the coil can be popped out of the pastic sheild & popped into the the double plug with the donor ballst beside the green wire.

 There are a Number of options for ECUs
 - the stock ECU good for approx 5000 RPM
 - the Orange box P4120505 good to approx 6000 rpm
 -  the Chrome Box P4120534 good to Approx 8000 RPM & will ive on the street just fine
 - the super Gold box P4120600 these are good from 2000-10,000 RPM  :o but will burn out on the street
 FBO systems has a new stock looking 4 pin ECU these have modern electronic switches in them are are more stable & accurate then the 30 year old Mopar ECUs but look the same , I will be testing them later this spring on a dyno for real world results ...but if they live up to the billing they will be the best ECU available
 Don @ FBO can be contacted @ http://cuda66273.proboards23.com/index.cgi
« Last Edit: March 03, 2004 - 01:11:10 AM by Chryco Psycho »

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