Proportioning Valve Fitting Giving Me Fits

[cwestra]

I can't seem to stop a leak coming from the upper rear connection of my proportioning valve.  This is the block that attaches directly to the inner fender and is the line that connects to the smaller block (see picture).  All lines are new, block is original but looks fine.  No matter what, I get a slow leak from that fitting only.  I have tried loosening and retightning, rotating the line inside the block to try and seat it in, nothing is working.  Is there any kind of sealer I can apply to the flare end to help here?  Any help would be appreciated.

[wagesofsin]

id pull that line and look at the flare on the end of the line, make sure its nice and smooth, make sure theres no crap in the space between the fitting end and the flare, or anywhere inside the actual fitting.
if its got a boogered end it will never seal.

good luck.

[cwestra]

id pull that line and look at the flare on the end of the line, make sure its nice and smooth, make sure theres no crap in the space between the fitting end and the flare, or anywhere inside the actual fitting.
if its got a boogered end it will never seal.

good luck.

I would have thought it was something like that too.  I have checked both connections and they are very smooth.  Very frustrating, to say the least.

[wagesofsin]

i went through the same thing.
i took mine aprt and remade the lines 3 times, 

im all about understanding your dilemma.

[4 speed fish]

This happened to me.Call the vendor you got it from and they might send you a new one free.They did this for  me.It doesnt take much to damage these lines.

[IMNCARN82]

I had to reeef on em'       get a good wrench. One that you have to tap on with a hammer. Then pray.   good luck man!!   I'll be back in there soon too.

[cwestra]

I just got off the phone with the company I purchased the lines from and they are sending me a replacement line.  He said this rarely happens on OE replacement lines (which is what I have), but will happen on upgraded stainless lines, as they are harder to form and also to confirm to the actual seat.  He also said to apply a small dab of Permatex Thread Sealer w/ Teflon to the back side of the flare, and a drop to the thread.  Not sure if anyone has tried this.  I can see where applying it to the back side of the flare could help but not sure on the thread portion.

[quagmire]

Sealer really shouldn't be needed.  The front (inverted cone) side of the flare does all of the sealing.  The sealer on the back and threads really shouldn't fix the leak, if it does I can almost guarantee it will leak during a panic stop when max pressure (>1000psi) is in the system.  Assuming the flare is ok sometimes you need to crank on them hard, loosen them, and then retighten normally to kind of lap them in.  I've had this fix a slight leak with less than perfect flare seats.

[femtnmax]

 
I would NOT use any sealer.  The double flare does ALL the sealing.

[Changin Gears]

Torque spec on those is 80-150 inch-pounds.  Sealer on a flare fitting nut is crazy talk.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

My buddy had a similar prob last year. He got parts from 2 diff suppliers... they had diff flare angles.... 

[Chryco Psycho]

I generally use a lubricant on the threads such as anti seize