Dana 60 seals?

[ksierens]

I saw a post in Moparts that said that the inner seal #8695S does not fit and the right one is #51098 which is for a 1967 Ford 1/2 ton PU.  Can anyone verify this?  Also, does the outer seal #8704S fit right and which is the right gasket for the retainer plate?  They list two different ones: 

Rear Axle; 5-Bolt Holes; 2-59/64 inch I.D. x 4-1/32 inch O.D.
Rear Axle; 5-Bolt Holes; 2-3/32 inch I.D. x 4-1/32 inch O.D

[Changin Gears]

The seal surface of a Dana 60 is smaller than an 8.75.  The 8.75's is the same diameter as the surface that the bearing is pressed on.  Pressing the bearing on/off sometimes scuffs the seal surface.  This does not happen on the 60.

The Dana axle seal part number I have used is National 481837.

[Katfish]

I saw a post in Moparts that said that the inner seal #8695S does not fit and the right one is #51098 which is for a 1967 Ford 1/2 ton PU.  Can anyone verify this?  Also, does the outer seal #8704S fit right and which is the right gasket for the retainer plate?  They list two different ones: 

Rear Axle; 5-Bolt Holes; 2-59/64 inch I.D. x 4-1/32 inch O.D.
Rear Axle; 5-Bolt Holes; 2-3/32 inch I.D. x 4-1/32 inch O.D

Went through this on my Dana install, 51098 is indeed the correct seal.  Dr Diff clued me into this, all the parts books apparently are incorrect.

[ksierens]

Cool, I ended up pulling one of the axles and check the size of the seal and the flange gaskets.  Ordered them from Advanced Auto for something like $86  I just didn't feel right about going with the green bearings.

Bearings (National) A-7
Inner Seal (National) 51098
Outer Seal (National) 8704S
Flange Gasket (FelPro) 55032

I am going to take the axles up to "The Ring and Pinion Shop" by my house and have them pressed on for $30 an axle.

[Katfish]

 Problem I had, is they don't make the metal spacer that holds the bearings on.  This is usually destroyed when you remove it.
I bought nice used stuff from Dr Diff.  When I picked up my car from the guy that did the rear-end/gears, he informed me he put green bearings on because the factory stuff was just too hard.

Ended up selling all the used HW I bought for a loss.   

I'd suggest just repacking the bearings and only replacing the inner seal.  This is what I've since been told is the way to go.

[ksierens]

Thanks for the heads up.  If the bearings don't come with the spacers, I will check with the rear end shop to see if they have them there.

[ksierens]

I picked up the parts today and the National A-7 bearings do come with the locking collars, so like I said, you can get all the parts from Advance Auto for less than $90

[Katfish]

I picked up the parts today and the National A-7 bearings do come with the locking collars, so like I said, you can get all the parts from Advance Auto for less than $90

Any chance you have a pic of the A-7 bearing you got?  I think we're talking about different parts.  Here's the stuff I had.
The 2 rings in the middle are the parts I was told they don't make any longer.  These are pressed on, and usually destroyed when removed.

[ksierens]

I can take a picture, but the A-7 bearing came with the bearing, the race and the "ring".

[ksierens]

In fact, I saw on a thread on another site, that the rings could still be ordered from Timken.  I have the part number at home if anyone needs it.

[Kapteenikosmos]

Almost any machinist can make new retainer rings if those aren't manufactured anymore. Even I can and I don't have any education for machine work, it's just kind of hobby for me. The calculator for interference fit and the force that it holds can probably be found from the net (some online calculator or freeware software) and after that it is just a question of getting the inside diameter into a right size. A decent lathe and micrometer will do that.

[ksierens]

I will mic it tonight and post the dimensions.

[ksierens]

The lock ring measures 2.250" OD x 1.560" ID x 0.500" thick.  The axels seems to be about 1.564" OD, but the locks are still on them.

The problem may be though that it might be hardended.