Author Topic: Improving braking power after disc conversion  (Read 3394 times)

Offline Tonefiend

  • ▬▬▬▬ ♫ ♠ ♫ ▬▬▬▬
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 987
  • '70 Challenger
    • Ian A. Guitars
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2009 - 02:43:27 AM »
Thanks again for all the help and advice.  It sounds like the stock master cylinder will be fine which was my main concern.   I will look into the proportioning valve.  Anyone know of any dirt roads left in San Diego??  :)




Offline ajantics

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 299
    • Yeah......Im a drummer!
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2009 - 04:27:07 AM »
 :popcorn:
70 Barracuda
73 'Cuda
2003 Dodge Ram 3/4ton
2009 G37s

Offline dodge freak 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 825
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #17 on: December 15, 2009 - 11:42:00 PM »
Why not hose down some pavement and have a buddy watch you lock them up--just make sure you don't skid in to him, lol

As for the proportioning valve, I had them go bad on me. Was just like you are saying, pedal gets very hard-does not go the the floor yet the car has poor stopping power. After just replacing the proportioning valve with a new replacement brakes work much better. Maybe rust got inside and clog it up? Those are hard to find, I just went to Summit Racing and got one for a disk-drum car since that is what I have...

Offline ted

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1043
  • 74 cuda, 70 challenger r/t
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #18 on: December 16, 2009 - 06:14:14 PM »
how can you use a disk drum m/c with 4 wheel disks?
74 cuda, 70 challenger r/t

Offline IMNCARN82

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3547
  • LeDZeP
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #19 on: December 16, 2009 - 06:24:58 PM »
how can you use a disk drum m/c with 4 wheel disks?

The baer system requires an adjustable prop. valve to be installed to the rears.I ended up just cranking it open.
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline 72bluNblu

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1836
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #20 on: December 17, 2009 - 02:07:31 AM »
how can you use a disk drum m/c with 4 wheel disks?

You don't. In addition to the different balance, drum master cylinders retain a small amount of pressure in the lines so that your brakes function in a short amount of time. Drums brakes are removed by springs, disks just by pressure. There is a difference in the master cylinder.

It sounds like your brakes aren't working at all though. Even just the stock disk/drums do a good job of stopping these cars. Maybe not by new car standards, but certainly by old car standards. I'd make sure that the brake system was bled very well before going any further, and be sure to do it in the correct order so the proportioning valve is set up right. The disks in the rear should stop the car better than the old drums did, so with a stock proportioning valve you should be locking the rears first. The adjustable prop valve should be needed to dial the rears off a little.

First thing I would rule out is a leak or air in the lines. Bleed them with a vacuum bleeder too, sometimes gravity bleeding or the "pump the pedal" method doesn't get all the air out. While you're bleeding the brakes, take a look at the brake fluid coming out. It should be relatively clear, if its got a lot of dirt or rust in it, or is really cloudy looking you should flush it through with new fluid until its clean at all the bleeders.Take a look at the pads too, if they're contaminated (oil, brake fluid etc) they won't stop you either.  Short of a leak or air in the lines, I would look at the master cylinder next.

Offline Tonefiend

  • ▬▬▬▬ ♫ ♠ ♫ ▬▬▬▬
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 987
  • '70 Challenger
    • Ian A. Guitars
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #21 on: December 17, 2009 - 03:50:03 AM »
Thanks Bryan!  You are right, I do not think the back brakes are working much if at all.  I am almost certainit has a new proportioning valve as supplied by ssbc.  I will go through and bleed the brakes with a vacuum bleeder and while I am at it, install new fluid.   If the lines are anything like the fuel lines and the rest of the car, they are worn out and neglected. 

Offline 71chally416

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3170
    • The Streetwalker
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #22 on: December 17, 2009 - 05:39:30 AM »
A friend of mine with a '70 340 Dart put one of those aluminum MP master cylinders on his and he swears it improved his pedal feel and braking 100%  :dunno:
Once we had Ronald Reagan, Bob Hope & Johnny Cash. Now we have Obama, No Hope and No Cash!

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6197
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #23 on: December 17, 2009 - 08:30:54 AM »
A friend of mine with a '70 340 Dart put one of those aluminum MP master cylinders on his and he swears it improved his pedal feel and braking 100%  :dunno:
I replaced mine with one of those as well. Braking is better! :thumbsup:
Compared against a 20yr old MC ::)
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline HP2

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4478
Re: Improving braking power after disc conversion
« Reply #24 on: December 17, 2009 - 01:55:16 PM »
Those do come with a built in 60/40 or 70/30 bias already.


These aftermarket line pressure valves that go in the rear brake line are designed to reduce pressure to the rear to fine tune the lock up point. They won't correct a bad pressure distribution that originates in the master cylinder or combo valve.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2009 - 01:58:15 PM by HP2 »