Author Topic: Flushing brake fluid ?  (Read 1416 times)

Offline bentpshrods

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Flushing brake fluid ?
« on: January 18, 2010 - 04:28:23 PM »
  I removed all the brake lines--brake power booster and master cylinder so I could repaint the engine bay. Before I start putting things back together I need to flush/change the fluid to the rear brakes also. I figured I would take the fittings off the back and blow the lines out with air pressure. My question is how would you fill all the brake lines back up. Would I just start at the master cylinder and fill it then just use the pressure from it to force the fluid thru the lines.    ???    Is DOT 3 still the correct stuff to use or maybe synthetic fluid is now the better option.   Any suggestions ???




Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2010 - 04:46:52 PM »
My best guess is to make sure the bleeder on the passenger rear wheel cylinder is open while the other 3 are closed. 

Get one of those really big bottles of brakes fluid and flip it upside down in the master cylinder so the nose of it in under the upper ridge of the master cylinder.  Best to not open up the foil seal all the way on the bottle but rather pop 2 holes with a screw driver to be able to control the flow of fluid better when the time comes to remove the bottle. 

Gravity bleed or pump the master with only the pass. rear wheel cyinder open until there are no air bubbles.  Close the bleeder then bleed the driver's rear, then passenger caliper, then the driver's caliper.

Always keep an eye on the level in the master so you don't suck in air.

I don't know about DOT 3 vs synthetic but unless you do some crazy driving the DOT 3 shouldn't boil over.
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2010 - 06:02:15 PM »
There are a lot of tools/aids available to make this easier ... I have had several cheepies down through the years... The last, and least expensive under $5., has worked the best.  Looks something like this one. A simple one way valve & some clear tube.








Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2010 - 07:41:31 PM »
In the shop I worked in , we used a section of fuel line in a glass "Very Fine" juice bottle with about an inch of brake fluid in it to begin with.  Making sure that the end of the hose stays under the level of the brake fluid ensures that no air gets sucked in. 

I still have the same bottle used 15 years ago and it still works.  :icon16:
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2010 - 12:27:47 AM »
I use DOT 5 as it will not hurt the paint , I would just bleed it through until the fluid changes color
star furthest from the master
« Last Edit: January 19, 2010 - 12:29:23 AM by Chryco Psycho »

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Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2010 - 05:08:37 AM »
  Much easier & quicker if there are 2 people.   :2cents:
Dave

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Flushing brake fluid ?
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2010 - 10:01:46 AM »
Just filled my completely dry system 3 days ago.  Used a long plastic hose to a bottle on the ground like I always do. Used a combination of gravity and a pump of the brake pedal to do it by myself.

I bought a set of one man bleeder screws from the HELP section at my local AutoZone. A pair for the calipers and a pair for the rears. They contain a one way valve to not allow the air or fluid to suck back in with a ball and sping inside the bleeder. They sit in my toolbox unused to this day. Something available if you have problems bleeding them.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0