Anyone running 1.12" Torsion Bars in their Ebody???? How you like them?

[boydsdodge]

That's it? This is how it ends?
I was really expecting more from a great post.
 

[boydsdodge]

So did any one try installing the bars the way I did?
I'd love to hear if it worked.
I would answer the question my self but my engine is still at the machine shop.

[72bluNblu]

Haven't had a chance to do it yet, I've been driving my Challenger back and forth to work and haven't wanted to mess with it. I will give it a try, its easier than trying to reindex the t bar mounts.

[boydsdodge]

I have mine in using that method with one inch of adjuster bolt left to tighten if I need it.
I just don't have the weight yet.

[HP2]

FYI, Magnumforce has finally released their two inch drop spindles and they are waaaayy nicer than Fatman's and at $440 a pair, cheaper too. Bolt pattern will allow factory caliper adapters, which means you can use stock set ups or any of the commonly available Viper or Wilwood conversion kits on them too.

http://www.magnumforce.com/store/detail.asp?ProductID=3939

[boydsdodge]

sounds cool and very usefull to me.

[PlumCrazyChris]

Yes thats what I meant, with the bar out lift the lower control arm up into the wheel well. You will have to sometimes move the adjuster arm with the control arm to get it in position so the torsion bar slips in.
I did it when installing my 1.16 bars and they slipped in and I still had about 1" of screw sticking out below the arm, I didn't leave it that way because I have no drive line in yet. But i wanted to see if it would work. It seems it does, now all I have to do is see if I can get enough travel out of the bolt, the other worry is that the bolt will be holding the adjuster arm at it's full reach and i am not sure if the bolt is strong enough for that. Anyone else want to see if it works or have any ideas?

I'm sure the bolt will hold, its already holding up the car.   I just wonder if there will be enough adjustment to get it where you want it.   

It might be cheaper to get longer bolts then to re-index the anchors or buy new bars though...  Of course they would have to be custom.  FF should offer them with their bars.

Boydsdodge, please let me know about adjustability when you get a chance.  You should be able to adjust it pretty close without the motor, If I remember right, my Challenger only raised 2-3 inches without the motor.   So if you can get it that low or lower, then it should work perfectly.   

I'm getting my car back from the paint shop within the month and will start reassembling it.  I'll want to upgrade Tbars then (I've got stock BB bars now, .92") to at least 1", probably 1.12". 

Here is a reference article from some years ago that offer all the factory sized and part #s for Tbars.

Great thread, everything you ever wanted to know about Tbars.

[72bluNblu]

I finally got my 1.12" bars in and have been running around with them and the Magnumforce drop spindles for a few months now. Most of the info on my car is here

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=56565.15

The 1.12" bars are AWESOME for the handling aspect, they keep the car pretty much flat in the corners even without sway bars (haven't added those yet). I personally think the ride is just fine, although it is a lot stiffer than stock. Not punishing yet though, I haven't had any issues and I've logged a few trips of a few hundred miles now.

As for the adjusters, its not simply a matter of getting longer bolts. The problem with the larger bars is that they need LESS tension, not more, so the adjuster bolts are backed all the way out. Making the bolts longer will only add to the amount of bolt hanging out of the bottom of the LCA, not loosen the bar up. The torsion bars are slightly preloaded with the LCA's installed, and with a 1.12" bar even a slight amount of pre-load is enough to keep the car at stock height with the adjuster bolts completely backed off. Which is why the old racer's re-indexed the torsion bar anchors, turning them 30* to have a 0* offset on the torsion bar.

I think for a street application the magnumforce drop spindles are the way to go. Re-indexing the anchors will require some skilled measurements and welding, and unless you can do it yourself will probably cost more than the drop spindles. The magnumforce spindles are high quality pieces, and stronger than the original spindles by far. The only issue you might encounter is losing a little backspacing on the front wheels, this isn't an issue for stock wheel applications though, only for those wanting to run wider/lager diameter rims in the front with 5"+ of backspace (I've seen as much as 5.62" BS work in the front with a 17" rim) because it puts the tie rod end "lower". Typically with a 17/18 inch rim the tie rod is actually above the lip of the rim, so it fits inside the rim with larger backspaces. With a 2" drop, it puts it more in line with the lip of the rim, so you're back to the stock problem of having to worry about the tie rod clearance instead of having it fit inside the rim diameter.

[JS27N0B]

Will have a set of the big bars from XV motorsports available for sale at some point in time this year. The boss does not like the ride in the Cuda I built for him so will be putting in the factory bars. Cornering is great, the car just feels too stiff.

[72bluNblu]

Will have a set of the big bars from XV motorsports available for sale at some point in time this year. The boss does not like the ride in the Cuda I built for him so will be putting in the factory bars. Cornering is great, the car just feels too stiff.

I assume those must be out of XV's level 1 system right? I'd love to know what the actual diameter of those bars is...

[autoxcuda]

Will have a set of the big bars from XV motorsports available for sale at some point in time this year. The boss does not like the ride in the Cuda I built for him so will be putting in the factory bars. Cornering is great, the car just feels too stiff.

Hardtop or convertible? What tire sizes is he running?

IIRC, their T-bars are like 1.06? to 1.12. The the aspect ratio of the tire and stiffness of the shocks are also a factor in there too.

The tire is a spring in the system also. Fatter sidewall tires soak up the little bumps and cracks in the road. Two cars both running 1.12 T-bar but one with 225/60/15's and one with 235/40/18's will feel a lot different down the road.

[69daytona]

I just rebuilt the front end of my 70 Challenger R/T 440 6 pack with poly bushings 1 1/4" front sway bar and 3/4" rear and 1" mopar performance torsion bars, The ride is a little stiffer but the handling is great. I wouldnt say it was uncomfortable and I have had two back sugeries and can still drive it like I stole it.
Im working on a 69 Daytona clone and will be looking for 1"-1 1/8" for that maybe 1 1/4" if I can find them.
I can say the 1"on a big block challenger is still a comfortable ride, need to get some subframe connectors now before I twist the body in half.

[HP2]

...and to my experience a .96 t-bar with 1.125 sway bar is decent with a lightweight nose and a small block, but still a bit soft. That is why "handling" and "road feel" become so subjective. There are so many variables in it all from the spring rates, shock rates, wheel weights, tire aspect ratios, engine weights, weight distribution, fiberglass parts, seat spring tension, seat foam integrity, persional ailments, alignment specs, etc that can create a wide variety of perceptions of what is a comfortable or uncomfortable ride and what is good or bad handling.

[PlumCrazyChris]

This is such a great tread, with great info on suspension, does anyone have any updates.    I think this thread should be archived.

[72bluNblu]

This is such a great tread, with great info on suspension, does anyone have any updates.    I think this thread should be archived.

Well its been about a year since I installed my 1.12" t bars and about 9 months since I installed the Magnumforce drop spindles and 11.75" rotors. I've logged a good 7k miles since then, and still love them. Even with my small block car I wouldn't go any smaller given the chance to do it again. In fact, I will soon be switching from xhd rear springs up to super stocks, and with any luck I should be upgrading my shocks, installing front and rear sway bars and going up to 17" rims with 40 or 45 series tires in the course of this year. This will no doubt make the ride a bunch firmer than it is now with my KYB's, 15" rims and 60 series tires, but I don't think that will be an issue even with my daily driven car. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure the ride quality of my car wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea, but I still think its more than plush enough for a daily driven car, otherwise I wouldn't continue upgrading.

And Sacramento's roads/freeways ranked up in the top 10 for roughest in the country this year   , so I'm not just basing this on perfectly smooth, well maintained roads. But I also build my cars to carve corners over cruising the boulevard, and for me handling comes before a nice smooth ride. I did manage a 300+ mile single day jaunt without any ill-effects on my kidneys though  .