Driveline interchangeability

[CHL2T]

I have come to the conclusion that the driveline in the Cuda is outta whack. Rather than taking it to a shop to be balanced, I was just gonna swap one in from the wrecked 74 318 Challenger.

Question is, are they the same length/ dimensions/ weight/ balance and will it work withe the extra beef of the 440?

Also, are the yokes the same from auto to 4 speed?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it

[HemiOrange70]

The driveshaft is different length

[Chryco Psycho]

there are a lot of factors , if the auto is a 904 then the yolk is different & the shaft will be 4" too long , then there is the diff , if you have a 8 3/4 in both & a 727 auto in both then the driveshaft will swap

[CHL2T]

Thanks guys, fortunately, the u-joint was not seated properly in the rear, pulled it out, got er to lock in there, dropped the car and now.......NO VIBRATION !!!!!!!

I am still having trouble with the tranny popping out of second gear while decelerating and not wanting to downshift from third to second. All rods are adjusted properly and nuts are tight
Any thoughts??

[dodj]

if you have a 8 3/4 in both & a 727 auto in both then the driveshaft will swap

Where does the Challenger's extra 2" come in?

[Chryco Psycho]

Opps yeah with the 2" extra wheel base it won't fit either way

[femtnmax]

I am still having trouble with the tranny popping out of second gear while decelerating and not wanting to downshift from third to second. All rods are adjusted properly and nuts are tight
Any thoughts??

I assume your talking 4 speed.  Using the naming convention from a 1970 factory service manual:
Popping out of gear is usually caused by worn out "shift struts".  There are 3 of them that fit into slots in the syncro clutch gear (splined to mainshaft), and the sliding syncro clutch sleeve is held in place by the 3 shift struts. If the struts are worn and/or the strut springs are tired, the sliding sleeve won't stay in place and the trany pops out of gear.
Not wanting to downshift is usually worn out syncro "stop rings" and/or worn out cone on the gear itself (second gear in this case).
Sounds like the trany is tired, and in need of rebuild.  Passon Performance has a rebuilt 4 speed on ebay right now for about $600, which could be alot cheaper than buying all the parts, especially if anything major is out of wack with your current trany, such as if you have to start replacing gears.

[Changin Gears]

Popping out of 2nd on e-bodies is common.  It is caused by too stiff of a shifter boot, it will push the shifter forward.

[CHL2T]

Popping out of 2nd on e-bodies is common.  It is caused by too stiff of a shifter boot, it will push the shifter forward.

I tried the boot when I first got the car on the road and with the first shift into second, the boot ripped and then promply popped out of second. Yanked the boot, and it still pops out.
 Right now I have home sewn boot made outta carpet covering the hole. I would sure like to gear down properly, rather than always having to go from third to first. It also doesn't "feel" like it's all the way into second, when I have it in second, going downhill with my foot off the gas pedal, I literally have to force the car to stay in gear or just let it pop and go to third or back to first. It has also missed second several times if the rpm's aren't right

I am thinking that it is the synchronizer, or mayhap the shift fork? I will continue to drive it, but if it gets any worse, I will be forced to drop the trans and open 'er up and see what I can see.

Any thoughts?

[Changin Gears]

2nd's also the gear that everyone power-shifts.  It gets the most abuse.  Because of this the engagement teeth on the slider and gear can get chewed away leaving nothing to hold it in gear.

[Aussie Challenger]

Always need to check the dog teeth and shifter sleeve for wear and or taper, worse chipped or missing ends.