positioning a rearend . need some help...

[dutch]

so today I took a good look at my dana rearend, and that left me with some more questions.
when the rear was still in the car I noticed it wasn`t straight under the body.  one side was further to the front of the car than the other. Something else that caught my attention at the time was that there was not even a 1/4" between the tires and the leafsprings, with 15"x7 rallye`s and a 255 tire    there were aluminum wedges between rear & spring, the tabs that hold the rear in position on the springs are not on at the same angle and the welds are great 





so, I will have to cut off the crap and start over...      what would be the best way to tackle this?  how do I make sure the pinion-angle is correct?  ( is that even possible with no driveline in the car? )   Where do I get my measurements from? front end / body / framerails ect...?

another question...
can anyone tell me what the rear came out of ?  just curious...



another thing that caught my eye was the difference in axle seals left & right... is this normal for the dana 60?

[Challenger III]

1968 - 1969 B Body 4.10 Powr-Lok. Hope this helps.
Mike

[Aussie Challenger]

so today I took a good look at my dana rearend, and that left me with some more questions.
when the rear was still in the car I noticed it wasn`t straight under the body.  one side was further to the front of the car than the other. Something else that caught my attention at the time was that there was not even a 1/4" between the tires and the leafsprings, with 15"x7 rallye`s and a 255 tire    there were aluminum wedges between rear & spring, the tabs that hold the rear in position on the springs are not on at the same angle and the welds are great   

If one side is further forward than the other then the spring centre bolts are not locating the axle housing, one is either broken or missing. You mentioned that there were wedges, if one was installed it could have raised the spring saddle so the centre bolt wouldn't locate it.
You will need to check that both saddles are welded at the same angle as it looks like a non factory weld in the picture.   

[dutch]

the saddles are not welded at the same angle and the holes don`t measure the same distance to the tube either...  in other words,  one hole is further to the front of the car than the other...
I suppose I would be ok if I make new saddles , make sure the holes & other distances are correct and weld them on,  BUT.... how do I position the pinion angle correct..?

[dutch]

1968 - 1969 B Body 4.10 Powr-Lok. Hope this helps.
Mike

thanks mike, I thought it might be a b-body rear.
might be a good time to move the springsaddles a bit towards the centresection, and relocate the springshackles

[Challenger III]

That's a great idea, Dutch. I've found the best way to set up a rear end is to bolt it in with the perches not welded, carefully measure everything, including wheel / tire clearances. Load the springs, if you can, with the weight of the car and aim the pinion slightly lower than the trans tailshaft / yoke. If this stuff is not in the car yet - you can weld it up when it is! Works for me!
Mike