What & Where to buy Stroker Crank, Bearings & Rods?

[71chally416]

I'm looking at building a 340 I picked up recently and have a few questions about stroking from those of you that have done this.  How did it change the behavior of your engine?  I've heard that 340s are sweet running, high rpm street engines and wondered if they are still as 'fun' to drive as strokers.  And as far as the block goes, did you have to do any grinding for clearance?  Did you have to do anything irreversible to the block?  I'm not sure a stroker is really necessary for what I'm looking to get out of mine, but I'd like to hear you folks comments to help me be sure.

Thanks, Jim

No clearance problems on mine. 340's are easier to hook up with stock suspension compared to stroked motors, and obviously they are easier to RPM because of the deficient head issue. As for the "Fun" factor, my vote goes to the stroker. I had the same issue with running out of head at 5,400 on the dyno (Commando heads) and I chose to remove the cork with some porting and a Vic intake which moved the peak up 900rpm. 

[Glennster]

71chally 416,
  When I told my new engine builder that I thought I may need a better cam because the motor seemed to flatten out after 4500 - 4700 rpm, he said it needed better heads. He said the cam was not the problem, he said the J heads could not keep up with 416 cubic inches....

[femtnmax]

I had the same issue with running out of head at 5,400 on the dyno (Commando heads) and I chose to remove the cork with some porting and a Vic intake which moved the peak up 900rpm.

Are you running commando or super commando?  Just curious, what is the intake port height and width at the minimum port area, I assume at the intake manifold gasket or the pushrod pinch.  What rpm is peak TQ and peak HP?
What is the valve stem diameter, and are you running 1.6 or greater rocker ratio?  What cam spec at 0.050 duration?  thanks.

[moper]

Glenn,
I agree with your builder. The cam you have is mild for a 4" arm engine, but usable. In fact, you could upgrade to 1.6s and it would be perfect. In terms of heads, the LA RPMs would be ok and I don't think you'd be disappointed. Also, Indio Motoers is in CA and has a good head in the iron RHS MA-X or LA-X deals.  Ready to bolt on for $1300 plus shipping and out of the box are around 240-250cfm. You wont get RPMs ready to install for that, nor any MP stuff.

[Road_Runner]

I'm running a 360 based 408 stroker.  My block required no clearancing whatsoever.  I'm using KB hyper pistons, Eagle SIR rods, and a Mopar 4" cast crank, all internally balanced.  The top end uses an Eddy RPM Air Gap intake, 800cfm Thunder AVS dual feed carb, Performer RPM cam kit, and Performer RPM heads.  I  built it myself, but had the machine work done for me.  I have about 3000 hard street miles on it right now, now problems as far as engine health.  It runs fine on pump gas too.  My motor needs a bigger/better cam and head work though, it runs out of steam around 5K.  Plenty of torque too, perfect for a street motor.

The strokers can turn RPM's too, they just need more airflow.  They can make the same or more power as a stock stroke engine, it'll just peak out much lower with the same components.  I can't tell you how it compares to stock since this engine replaced a weak, worn out, bone stock 318 out of a cop car.

My 340 will replace a bone stock but otherwise sweet running 318 when I get it all put together.  With the 340 blocks somewhat scarce I don't want to cut it up so it sounds like that won't be required if I stroke it which is good.  I've also got most of the parts to swap to a 4 speed but right now I'm leaning towards keeping it an auto at least for now.  My 340 is a standard bore short block so I don't have heads right now and likely will go with either Edelbrock Aluminum or RHS iron aftermarket heads based on what I've read so far.  Heads have always been the way to wake up these old Mopar engines and hi-flo heads are defnitely part of the plan.

Thanks, Jim

[Road_Runner]

No clearance problems on mine. 340's are easier to hook up with stock suspension compared to stroked motors, and obviously they are easier to RPM because of the deficient head issue. As for the "Fun" factor, my vote goes to the stroker. I had the same issue with running out of head at 5,400 on the dyno (Commando heads) and I chose to remove the cork with some porting and a Vic intake which moved the peak up 900rpm.

I'm 'tempted' to put a sixpack setup on it, but since they really aren't correct for 73's I'm not so sure.  For a 4 bbl I'll probably either go with a performer rpm or rpm airgap.  I'm still trying to work out where the Barracuda slots in along with my Roadrunner.  The RR has always been a 1/4 mile type car and along with cruise nights that's how I want it rebuilt, so I don't need the Barracuda to have the same level of power necessarily and would rather focus more on handling & driveability.

Later, Jim

[Glennster]

moper,
 I looked at the Indio site, is it IMM (Indio Motors & Machine)?  All I saw was some Edelbrock heads there. I not clear on what you said in your post, do these guys to cast iron heads only? Do they give better performance than the Edelbrock heads?

[moper]

That's the place. Call and talk to Brian. The heads are RHS deals that are sold as bare castings and IMM assembles. They are magnum port based iron heads, but have LA rocker setups and std shaft oiling (LA-X) or Magnum rockers and oiling(MA-X) with the Magnum chamber. They are a less expensive way to get similar performance as the RPMs. They are nice out of the box but are limited because of the Magnum pushrod bump. They are also around $800 cheaper than RPMs.

[71chally416]

Are you running commando or super commando?  Just curious, what is the intake port height and width at the minimum port area, I assume at the intake manifold gasket or the pushrod pinch.  What rpm is peak TQ and peak HP?
What is the valve stem diameter, and are you running 1.6 or greater rocker ratio?  What cam spec at 0.050 duration?  thanks.

I have the "Big port" version with relocated pushrod holes. Don't have the exact size written down but I have several pics of them after they were ported on my webpage. HP peaked at 6,450 after the work. I'll have to get the dyno sheet for the TQ peak. Cam is the old .528" lift factory solid with 1.7 rockers and it has factory valve stem diameter and the factory SS valves. I cut down the 2.08"s for the Intakes.

 http://streetwalker.homestead.com/ 

[71chally416]

71chally 416,
  When I told my new engine builder that I thought I may need a better cam because the motor seemed to flatten out after 4500 - 4700 rpm, he said it needed better heads. He said the cam was not the problem, he said the J heads could not keep up with 416 cubic inches....

He is 100% correct