Nearly done, need help with oilpressure instruments

[4yuckfous]

 
I'm almost on the street.
Some small works to finish after 2.5 years hard work.

I build in a Oilpressure Gauge and have attached this parallel with the oil indicator lamp.
Now the indicator lamp glows and the pressure gauge shows me 100 psi!

I mounted a original oilpressure sending unit.
What can I do?
-Is it necessary to solder in a resistor in the wire from the indicator lamp or the gauge?
-Or do I need a  other 100 psi sending unit?

Thank you for a feedback.
Andrea

[UKcuda]

You can't connect a gauge and a light in parallel with the same sender.

The gauge sender is a variable resistor and the light sender is a pressure activated switch.

Sounds like probably you have used the switch type which explains your 100 psi reading as your gauge has simply gone full scale.  You could damage the gauge with it connected like that.

If you want to use a light as well as a gauge you can get a "T" fitting which screws into the engine.  Then you can attach a proper sender for the gauge as well.

Another issue with your set up is what voltage you are giving the gauge.  The light should have 12 volts but the gauge may require less (depending where it came from).

And well done for getting it finished 

[Bullitt-]

See section 4 & 5 for a slick fix
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

[4yuckfous]

Where can I get a T- or a Y-fitting, 100psi and a "idiot light" switch from?
Probabbly I need a T-fitting then the space between
the hole for the switch and the ignition distributor is to small.

@UKcuda
The gauges are from AutoMeter the American Muscle Series.
I have attached direct to the ignition wire (according to the manual).

[Chryco Psycho]

do you have  the correct switch ? some light with pressure some light with no pressure

[4yuckfous]

I think I have somewhere the original switch.
It's for a standard cluster.
But I think, it's better to replace all things together

[UKcuda]

I would have expected the AutoMeter gauge to come with its own sender.

If it says attach to ign. then it is a 12 volt gauge and it will probably read way too high with a stock E-body sender.

Bullit's suggestion is an excellent fix if you can find a dual function sender to match your gauge, otherwise it will still read wrong one way or the other.

I think the original switch for the standard cluster is closed with no pressure (open with pressure).  At least it is for 1970 I know that much.

You say the distributor is maybe in the way so I assume you have a small block.  I put a "T" piece on my 340 Challenger and ran a gauge and a light, so there is room for it if you get the right parts.  That was a long time ago though, maybe try Summit or somewhere like that 

[nqkjw]

I've got aftermarket mechanical guage,original rallye guage and an idiot light working in mine.
The aftermarket is easy.Just plumb in the copper capillary tube.
For the rallye guage I bought the sender unit from YearOne.
For the idiot light any sender from an autoparts store will work.

[UKcuda]

I've got aftermarket mechanical guage, original rallye guage and an idiot light working in mine.

I hope you can still find time to look at the road now and then. 

[4yuckfous]

The parts are ordered, including the tee fitting

Thank you all.

I will post a picture when the windows are mounted
(a.s.a.p.)


Greetings from Switzerland