Installing new Be Cool radiator

[miketyler]

I bought a BeCool aluminum radiator for my 340. Is a universal type, any tips on how to mount it? The radiator is a 35002 universal fit. Maybe I can get some aluminum angles and have welded to the sides and mount as stock? Is nearly equivalent to my 26" in size.

How about fan shroud? I hate to butcher up this OEM shroud, the core dims on this radiator are 22w x22h. Any suggestions there?


   

[miketyler]

Got it in and still have high temps. (big surprise) It does look cool and I think I will keep it and work with it instead of the OEM I have. It was running without a shroud during testing. As many cars as I see running cool without a shroud I assume the results to be conclusive.

The last thing on my list was to put a strong pusher up front. I built up some U-channels to space the radiator closer to the fan and open up the air space in between the condensor and the radiator. I slipped in a 16" SPAL pusher. Its noisy as hell but it seemed to work. Although yesterdays outside air temps were a bit cooler than my previous days testing I couldn't get it past 210 with with the AC on.

I still need to get a shroud on it and get a fan controller so it doesnt run constantly. Also would be interested in anyones experiences with 16" or larger pusher fans. I need to find a quieter one if one exists out there. The SPAL I have is rated at 2360CFM @ 21A

     

 

[DocMel]

I cant find it, but there is a very intersteing comparison ref aluminum vs brass radiators.

Ive done the aliminum raditor thing in the past:
If you were running hot to begin with, and the prob wasnt related to a shot radiator, an aluminum radiator will not really show an improvement.  You get less unsprung weight with an aluminum rad, but no real cooling advantage.  In other words, a in good condition brass OEM radiator cools almost just as well as a aluminum radiator

You are loooking at the key though:  A shroud is mandatory for efficient cooling.  I wont go into electric fans, etc. but you need to run a shroud, regardless

But if your original cooling issue wasnt related to a shot radiator, you wont see much improvement even if you install a shroud on your new aluminum one

[DocMel]

Now you see the issues with a universal fit radiator:  You need to rig it to fit, as well as the original radiator shroud   They are certinaly cheaper than a specific fit, but now you know the deal:  ask me how I know......

[brads70]

I used the Chevy HHR fan. Works great!....and cheap! Alstar Rad, cheap too!

[Bullitt-]

Mike, I have seen no one do more to cure a overheating problem than you, I have to think the problem is not in the cooling system but something to do with the motor.  Is it possible that there is blockage in the block (my water jackets appear to be 1/2 full of casting sand), running lean or timing is not advanced enough?...

Wade

[miketyler]

Could be. I took your advice last year (or was that in 2008?) and left it with Greg K for a few weeks and he couldnt find anything. The update on this is that the SPAL pusher fan does keep temps under 210*. Hopefully will improve even more when I get a shroud and top deck panel built. Maybe some day I will be more inclined to pull the engine back out, pull freeze plugs and see what I can find. For now, I think I can start driving it again.
 
Also, it never really "overheated" with puking water and steam and boil over....it just ran way hotter than was within my comfort zone.

[Bullitt-]

If it's any comfort to you, one of the few vehicles I've ever seen that had actual temperature marks from the factory is my '98 Dakota. In the middle of it's normal range is 210 & that's where it runs, hot is marked 260 so I imagine much short of 260 is OK. 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Mike,

  I agree with Wade here. You have tried so much to get your engine to cool, and it still runs hot. Maybe some blockage in the block, or maybe you need to move up to where Chryco is, then overheating won't be an issue.