Primer/Sealer question

[wally426ci]

I know we have a billion threads on this type of question but i thought Id ask a current question in case anything has changed.

I don't want this thread to turn into a Cage Match, you know what they say about opinions...... 

 

I hear people use etching primer on bare metal. Then some people use epoxy. I personally hate epoxy b/c the stuff I had used always took forever to dry wben mixed properly. And never quite gumming up sandpaper.

I would prefer to use etching which I have a gallon & 1/4 of SEM. But if I am using Base/Clear, what would I seal with? I'll  be using Vanilla MarHyde 2k for blocking.

I have time, since its 30* outside but want to prepare for Spring if I have the time to shoot some stuff then. 

[Topcat]

Tony fishn4cuda & I have been using 5star Xtreme direct to metal primer. No etching primer required before hand. 4:1:1 as an epoxy, 4:1:2 as a sealer. I use PPG as a reducer for it. I find this primer to sand fairly easy and sticks to prepped, conditioned  metal very good. 

I'm just using it for direct to metal and sand/bodywork seal. Later, when everything is ready for the final seal coat; switch to PPG epoxy as the final seal coat.

[wally426ci]

So Mike, you your last coat is epoxy and then you'll block that for the base? I will hopefully find a tintable epoxy for that coat. Thanks! 

[Topcat]

So Mike, you your last coat is epoxy and then you'll block that for the base? I will hopefully find a tintable epoxy for that coat. Thanks! 

My final coat will be a PPG epoxy sealer. DP50 light grey probably. Unless I can find a way to tint it light blue.

Mix is: 4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 2 parts reducer to make into a sealer.
I'll seal it after my last 400 grit blocking. Maybe even go to 600 grit.

I don't know when this'll take place but I can see light at the end of the tunnel right now. 

[MOPAR DREAMS]

If you are using a good 2K primer surfaceryou shouldn't have to seal just block then finish with P600, clean, then base right over it.  A good sealer is a nice addition but the OEM warranty repair manuals I have read didn't require it over the 2K primers.  A good colored 2K primer sealer sure is nice though.

[Topcat]

If you are using a good 2K primer surfacer you shouldn't have to seal just block then finish with P600, clean, then base right over it.  A good sealer is a nice addition but the OEM warranty repair manuals I have read didn't require it over the 2K primers.  A good colored 2K primer sealer sure is nice though.

I want a colored sealer most of all. So how can I pre test a colored sealer with the Base coat knowing it has longetivity for many years without issues if so many mfg'rs don't offer or recommend tinted sealers? To me it seems the word "No" "you can't use it with our product" seems common. Yet no given answers as to why you can't. Sounds to me "No" means we really don't know for sure so were gonna say "no" just to be safe. (CYA) is the reason?

[wally426ci]

Definitely finish with 600 Mike. I finished with 400 on the hood of my truck and I should have went a little more fine.

Maybe you could through a tinted primer over your sealer coat? I used Sherwin Williams Robins Egg Blue under my B5 when i did it.

[Topcat]

Leaning towards the PPG the most. They make a light grey and a dark blue primer. I'm going to ask the PPG rep about mixing the two into a light blue.

[challenger71]

You can use that self etch primer that you have. Then follow it up with a 2k to block out. Here is what I am doing with all of my restoration projects. Self etch primer, followed by a Polyester primer (very thick) then block, followed by a nice 2k primer, then blocked again. basecoat then cleared and blocked again. This system has given me lazer straight paint jobs that have won many awards. I have been painting cars for the past 18 years and this has given me the best results. Best of luck on your car.

[wally426ci]

Thanks!!