Author Topic: Battery relocation questions (Read 2943 times)

HemiDog · « **on:** November 23, 2004 - 09:12:26 AM »

I am looking to move my battery to the trunk and was just curious as to what kits people liked, if it would be better to piece the parts together, and just general thoughts about what to look for.

purple6popper · « **Reply #1 on:** November 23, 2004 - 12:08:13 PM »

several things to keep in mind. use good cable. had a 71 torino 429 with ~11-1 compression. guy i bought it from moved the battery to the trunk, and used standard bolt down kit. if i was running errands and had to start several times in a row the cables woud get too hot and i couldn't start the car. had to carry jumpers areonud. jump from the trunk to the starter relay and it would start ok. ran a new 2/O cable for the hot, jumpered the original cable together and never had another problem.
2ga might work, but would suggest 1/O, maybe even 2/O depending on motor, electric fan, stereo... use WELDING cable. will be fine strand with rubber oil/grease resistant jacket. super flexible. worth the extra $$$. use the correct crimp on lugs fo a specific size cable, not just some generic ones. go to the electric supply house and ask them. t&b, and rand are some of the better ones.

2nd thing: use a cut out switch in the trunk right next to the battery. if you ever pinch a cable and ground it out it really sucks trying to find a wrench to remove the battery cable. also end up with burned fingers. trust me on this one, i know. also works as a security device, especially if you get one that requires a key. can cut juice to the whole car, and crooks have to figure out what you did before they can drive off. mine went through a monster relay. had a small toggle switch in car that killed the relay in the trunk.

3rd thing: use a junction block in the engine bay. run the cable from the trunk to the juncion block. connect from the junction block as if it was the battery. if you ever have to jump the car you will be glad you did. also makes a good point to wire in your new relays for your head lights.

4th: use a non venting battery (optima or panther), or a vented marine style vented battery box. torino's voltage regulator stuck one day. battery overcharged and started off gassing. almost passed out before i figured out what was going on. installed new voltage regulator, and plastic battery box with vent tube running out through gas filer area. trunk doesn't look like it, but it is part of the passenger compartment.

just a few thoughts.

Plum6Pak · « **Reply #2 on:** November 23, 2004 - 12:17:32 PM »

:thumbs: Wow, that is some good information P6P, I am planning on doing the same thing. You gave me a good idea about the welder cable, I work for a company that has a division that sells and repairs welders, I will go scarf some up from the repair shop! I suggest putting it in a shield as well, can't hurt to keep it protected.�

HemiDog · « **Reply #3 on:** November 23, 2004 - 12:49:17 PM »

Thanks a lot for the info.
:thumbs:
It helps a lot and answers the questions I really have at this point.

Autophile · « **Reply #4 on:** November 23, 2004 - 01:37:39 PM »

I agree, that is great information. Purple6popper's post (above) should be archived in a DIY Reference file, or something like that.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2004 - 10:07:55 PM »

good info I also use welding cable it carries the load easily

heminut · « **Reply #6 on:** November 24, 2004 - 08:56:47 AM »

If you are planning to run the car at the track at any time you will have to have the battery in a sealed box or have a sheetmetal bulkhead between the trunk and the passenger compartment to pass tech. You will also have to have a master kill switch mounted at the rear of the car.

purple6popper · « **Reply #7 on:** November 24, 2004 - 11:00:16 AM »

couple of other things when playing with electric cable.

when using welding cable, connectors _usually_ aren't same size as cable. welding cable uses smaller dia wires inside. either the smaller wires carry more juice, or you have the same cross area as larger wires in smaller space. what this means, use 1 gauge smaller connector. for example, if you have 2/O welding, you will use 1/O connector. at least the cable we use at work is set up this way. (i build cellular systems for motorola)

if crimping connectors, and not soldering use an anti-oxidation agent inside the barrel of the connector (where wire goes in). "No-Ox" "Anti-Ox", or some similar product. usually a gel, or grease like paste. this is essential. you have all seen connections that are full of that white powdery crud, this stuff is meant to keep that out.

heat shrink all connections. use tape if you must, but cover up the end where the rubber meets the connector.

use the shortest length of cable possible. more cable=more resistance=voltage drop.

if bolting 2 of the lugs together, use stainless or copper bolts. use no-ox on all mating surfaces. washer-lug, lug-lug.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #8 on:** November 24, 2004 - 12:36:32 PM »

I highly recommend soldering the terminals on

purple6popper · « **Reply #9 on:** November 24, 2004 - 01:12:36 PM »

takes quite a bit of heat to sold cables that big. be careful when doing it, will melt the jacket right off.

that being said, yes solder is better, unless you have the proper tools to crimp lugs this size. they take a special compression crimper that puts pressure on all 4 sides. also have a hydraulic one for bigger stuff that makes a hex shaped crimp.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #10 on:** November 24, 2004 - 02:00:14 PM »

use a propane torch & heat the terminal not the wire ther solder will flow into the terminal

lemonboy69 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 25, 2004 - 09:10:10 PM »

Dammit... and I thought this was going to be EASY!! Does anyone have any pics of this DONE or is everybody still in the process of doing it??

With a junction block in the engine bay, you need to run 2 wires... one ot the starter and one to the ignition relay... I bought all new harnesses from Year One... hopefully I don't have to cut 'em!! Thank God for wiring diagrams, but too bad it's like reading Greek!

LB

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #12 on:** November 25, 2004 - 11:02:26 PM »

I have done this many times , I use the starter as the junction block , I route the wire inside the car through the wiring channel under the left door sill & use a grommet to go through the firewall directly to the starter , then I use a large guage wire wire generally 8-10 guage to hook from the starter up to the relay to run the rest of the car , this wire should be approx the same size as the wire from the the relay to the starter solinoid & this gets the maximum power to the starter for starting the car. I highly recommend using a cut off switch in the trunk also
if you are going to the track this opens a new can of worms , a 2 post cutoff switch will not shut the car off , instead you will need a 4 post switch to turn off the alt as well or the car will just keep running off the alt, so now you need to cut into the green wire on the field of the alt & run that circuit all the way from the regulator to the cut off switch in the trunk & back to the alt. For street use I recoommend you mount the switch in the trunk & use a relay rod through the body to the switch that can be easily detached , this is all legal at the track as long as the switch is off when the rod is pushed

Author Topic: Battery relocation questions (Read 2943 times)

HemiDog

Battery relocation questions

purple6popper

Re: Battery relocation questions

Plum6Pak

Re: Battery relocation questions

HemiDog

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Autophile

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Chryco Psycho

Re: Battery relocation questions

heminut

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purple6popper

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Chryco Psycho

Re: Battery relocation questions

purple6popper

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Chryco Psycho

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lemonboy69

Re: Battery relocation questions

Chryco Psycho

Re: Battery relocation questions