Pinion Angle after auto to manual conversion

[7Dcuda]

I've got a 70 cuda that currently has a 440 with an auto 727 and has been lowered about 1.5" in the rear via lowering blocks.  It has some shims installed at the rearend/leafsprings which I'm assuming was for adjusting the pinion angle after the rear was lowered.  Im about to remove the 727 and install an A833 4 speed.  My question is should my pinion angle be ok after the swap or am I gonna have to re-do it?  I've been told the tail shaft on a 727 and an A833 are pretty much in the same spot when installed so I'm hoping the pinion angle will be ok as is but would appreciate any input/advice.   

[ShelbyDogg]

I've got a 70 cuda that currently has a 440 with an auto 727 and has been lowered about 1.5" in the rear via lowering blocks.  It has some shims installed at the rearend/leafsprings which I'm assuming was for adjusting the pinion angle after the rear was lowered.  Im about to remove the 727 and install an A833 4 speed.  My question is should my pinion angle be ok after the swap or am I gonna have to re-do it?  I've been told the tail shaft on a 727 and an A833 are pretty much in the same spot when installed so I'm hoping the pinion angle will be ok as is but would appreciate any input/advice.   

It should be the same angle. If if didn't shake before the conversion, it shouldn't shake after it.

Speaking of shaking, where did your flywheel come from and does your engine have 6-pack rods in it? 2 different balancing setups with that question. Throw a 3rd on in there if your 440 happens to have a cast crank in it. Things happen in 42 years.

[7Dcuda]

Not sure about the rods but I know I have a cast crank based on the harmonic balancer being stamped "for cast crank only" so I would assume it wouldnt have the heavy 6 pack rods.  Think those rods would be used with forged cranks......could be wrong though.  Im getting the flywheel along with the clutch and pressure plate from Brewers Performance as part of the auto to manual conversion kit.  I noticed on the Brewers website that some flywheels are balanced by drilling holes others are balanced by adding a bolt on weight to the flywheel.  Why the different ways?

It should be the same angle. If if didn't shake before the conversion, it shouldn't shake after it.

Speaking of shaking, where did your flywheel come from and does your engine have 6-pack rods in it? 2 different balancing setups with that question. Throw a 3rd on in there if your 440 happens to have a cast crank in it. Things happen in 42 years.

[ShelbyDogg]

Not sure about the rods but I know I have a cast crank based on the harmonic balancer being stamped "for cast crank only" so I would assume it wouldnt have the heavy 6 pack rods.  Think those rods would be used with forged cranks......could be wrong though.  Im getting the flywheel along with the clutch and pressure plate from Brewers Performance as part of the auto to manual conversion kit.  I noticed on the Brewers website that some flywheels are balanced by drilling holes others are balanced by adding a bolt on weight to the flywheel.  Why the different ways?

Sorry to tell you but 6 pack rods is a totally different balance than a 440 cast crank.  You add 6 pack rods to a cast crank and that is a whole different scenario.  Which flywheel did you get from Brewers and did you ever take your car up to hi RPMs with the auto?  Do you have a picture of the back of your torque converter?  DID IT SHAKE AT ALL BEFORE?