Author Topic: 70 E Body Brakes - Manual to Power Conversion...  (Read 1431 times)

Offline 72ls5fla

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70 E Body Brakes - Manual to Power Conversion...
« on: March 02, 2011 - 06:25:16 PM »
Hello---

I am in the process of purchasing a 70 440 RT - it has the HD manual drum brakes.

I would like to convert to power brakes and then at a later date, convert to disc.

Does anyone have know a vendor who sells conversion kits that are comprised of all correct "lookng" and fitting parts as original?
Having correct part numbers or dates is not import.  I want to do this 100% correctly - no short cuts etc..

Any insight/assistance is GREATLY appreciated.

Bill




Offline mopar12372

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Re: 70 E Body Brakes - Manual to Power Conversion...
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2011 - 08:41:25 PM »
you can goto a wrecking yard/swapmeet  and buy 73and up abody disk setup.
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http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=71096.30

Offline RB2929

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Re: 70 E Body Brakes - Manual to Power Conversion...
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2011 - 10:19:46 AM »
If aftermarket is ok, Summit Racing, Mancini, and PST Suspension all have the conversion kits

Offline PlumCrazyChris

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Re: 70 E Body Brakes - Manual to Power Conversion...
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2011 - 04:56:25 PM »
Check out Mopar Action website tech pages for a list of parts needed, actually on second thought, that site is really old and has some bad info on swaps, but used to be the bible on it.  These sites are much better.

This site has great info http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dbconversion.shtml   as does this site http://www.68cuda.com/

I've done this swap several times and it works best if you can find a big mid 70's B-body with the big 11.75" rotors (pin type caliper has more pad options), and then get the entire power booster/master cylinder, with brake lines, proportioning valve, and the brake booster push rod from the pedal, all from one car that in is decent shape.  You'll replace the master cylinder and rotors and bearings, but you should be able to re-use the rest (if they are in decent shape).   Your car will stop on a dime.  Bigger really is better in this case, they work SO much better then the 10.75".

Also, this may be controversial, OK maybe stupid, but instead of the pickle fork, let the torsion bar help you to remove the spindle.  I jack up the car, remove the wheel and slightly loosen the nut on top of the upper ball joint, making sure to leave plenty of thread on it.  Then smack the side of the spindle, and the balljoint will separate from the upper control arm with a startling thud (doesn't usually happen on the first try).  The nut keeps it from killing anyone.  The same thing can be done with the lower.  You have to be VERY careful because there is a LOT of force in that torsion bar, and it can kill, so don't get in its way in case the threads let go.  I usually only use this method in the junkyard when I have limited room and resources.  I have a pneumatic pickle fork at home.

Once the balljoints are loose, release the tension on the torsion bar completely and remove the nuts.  You need the entire spindle with all the caliper brackets and caliper.  keep it all as one piece and you'll usually get a better price at the junkyard.   I think I paid $55 for the last set I got off a 77 Cordoba '09.   A new stock conversion kit will cost about $600 for the front. 

Good luck,
Chris




PlumCrazyChris
Mopar Muscle Cars of Austin
Round Rock Tx
70 Challenger 5.7, A518, A/C
70 Challenger 340 convertible (Gone to Sweden)
68 Barracuda (sold it too)
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