Electronic Ignition Options. Is MOPAR Perf. it????

[72fish]

So I'm on my THIRD Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Controller in 2 yrs!!!    Does anyone know of an OEM-style alternative to the Mopar piece.  They clearly have an issue in either the design or the production of this particular part, as from what I understand this is a well documented issue.  I also understand that for some reason the problem doesn't occur in all production runs.  So.... I continue to to use theirs for lack of an alternative.

From an 'appearance' standpoint, I REALLY don't want to use a chrome or other non-original appearing unit.

Any help or suggestions is much appreciated.

-Dan

[burdar]

I assume your using an orange box?  THey have had issues as of late.  I think you may be better off buying a cheap parts store box.  The parts store box will most likely look closer to stock then the orange boxes do.  You can always paint it black too.

[the_engineers]

There are a couple of threads where people have gutted their Orange box and put a GM-style HEI controller inside. Eliminates the ballast resistor as well.

[Bullitt-]

+ 

Something new coming http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html

OR I'd invest about $60-in 2-of these that have a Lifetime Warranty & never be without.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD1/CBE14.oap?pt=02801&ppt=C0334

[72fish]

Thanks for the advice, guys.  I like the idea of gutting the EIC that just quit on me and incorporating an HEI controller inside.  Hmmmm....

[the_engineers]

Some of the pics are gone, but here is the thread.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=62561.0

[UKcuda]

Some of the pics are gone, but here is the thread.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=62561.0

I found some of those missing pics still on my hard drive. 

I used a "gold box" but obviously you can use any old box.

If you gut the box carefully you can save the part of the original circuit board which connects to the socket and wire the HEI straight onto that.  That way it's stock looking and pretty much plug and play (though you will need to adjust the ignition timing a few degrees because the GM module fires on the other side of the signal spike).

Make sure you have a good interface between the module and the inside of the box near the original heat sink for cooling.  As I used a gold box it had a good heat sink on there, but there's also plenty of room to add a slab of aluminium to the back of the module if you think your stock heat sink could use some help.  Some of the modules come with a little pack of heat transfer paste to slap on the back.

If you want to keep a good stock appearance be careful to save the original switching transistor which may try to fall off when you gut the box out.  I used one of the stock mounting points for the module but I had to drill a little hole for the second mounting.  You can just see the tip of the extra mounting screw poking through the front (lower right hand side in photo).  That's the only give away it's not Mopar internals in the box.