need more help with front suspension problem

[70 RAG TOP]

I recently posted a problem relating to my steering arm(bar that connects the tie rods) rubbing on my oil pan.  Since then I found out that the after market rubber mounts were about 3/16" thinner than the original mounts which caused the engine to sit lower.  I reused my old mounts and there seems to be a little more clearance(about 1/8").  I also determined that the so-called re-pop oil pan that I got from 440 Source(don't get me started on them!!) is taller( same height  from middle of pan to rear of pan)  where my old pan gradually slopes up ( gets shallower as it goes from middle of pan to the rear).  I think this is a major reason for my lack of clearance.  I am sooooo pissed because I am forced to either try to dent the pan in slightly to allow bar to clear( which is risky )or   junk the 440 Source pan and go the nightmare route and spend  the time crawling under the car and trying to change the pan back to the old one and probably have leaks out the ass.  Did I mention that I am not impressed(!!!!!!!) with 440 Source's  "Quality of  Engineering"!???. 

Actually my new problem is as follows:    I noticed that when I turn the wheels all the way to the right there is at least a 1/2" clearance between the pan and the steering bar and when I turn the wheels all the way back to the right, the bar gradually gets closer and closer to the pan and the clearance goes to about 1/8".  What could cause the bar to rise and fall that drastically?

Any thoughts/ suggestions

Thanks   Mike

[Chryco Psycho]

A bend in the idler mount or steering box mount would cause the steering to swing in an arc vertically

[brads70]

Is your engine sitting flat/level ? If so look into this...?

[HP2]

Using Brad's reference above, I've rarely seen a stock mopar where L2 and R2 are identical. They are always off some amount. That will cause the rise/fall your seeing.

[Kevin71]

Do you shim the steering box and file the idler arm connection or is just one or the other will do it?  I have a similar problem.  But I think my is mostly that I put in a tremec 5 speed and it's being pushed down by the floor tunnel that is not tall enough.   So I have got to do some hammering on it. But if that doesn't work I am looking putting shims on the steering box.  My car was orgionally a 318 with a 440 in it now so I guess the motor mounts might be off some.  I never thought of that.

[brads70]

Do you shim the steering box and file the idler arm connection or is just one or the other will do it?  I have a similar problem.  But I think my is mostly that I put in a tremec 5 speed and it's being pushed down by the floor tunnel that is not tall enough.   So I have got to do some hammering on it. But if that doesn't work I am looking putting shims on the steering box.  My car was orgionally a 318 with a 440 in it now so I guess the motor mounts might be off some.  I never thought of that.

I can't see the tranny pushing it that far down but if it is Yikes! I sure wouldn't drive it that way? I thought you had to cut the tunnel for the Tremec? Did you put new mounts/brackets in when you installed the BB?
As far as the idler /pitman arms go , I was all set to do this but when I installed the fast ratio arms it was within 1/4" so I didn't bother. I'd say if you file a slot for the idler arm I would at least tack weld a washer on either side so things didn't move around?

[HP2]

If the engine is out, shimming the box is mucho easier, but if the engine is in, filing the lower pitman mount may be easier.