Brake dust shields were NOT black in 73. They were left galvanized. My original shields as well as ones I've seen for sale also have blue inspection marks on them. The metal was galvanized "before" it was stamped. There is no way to regalvanize the shields. Do NOT blast them. You'll take the galvanizing off. Instead, clean them up with soap/water and steel wool. I cleaned up my original headlight buckets this way. They came out looking great. If your original shields are in bad shape you'll have to find replacements if you want to keep the galvanized look. An option might be to use "Hammered" finish paint on them.
Front strut rod washers have been found brown phosphate and silver zinc. Look for remnants of the original plating on your washers.
I'm not sure what color the front swaybars were in 73. Other years were black.
Power steering boxes should be painted black. The black wore off quickly so a lot of people paint them a natural metal color which isn't correct. The black color should be flatter then what you use for the K-member.
For the LCA's, paint the stamped part with Seymour's Stainless steel paint(or Eastwoods Detail gray). Paint the cast adjuster/torsion bar socket and the cast lower ball joint with Eastwoods Spray gray. Mask off the outer end and spray the rest of the arm with Krylon battery protectant spray. It will take multiple coats to get it to turn yellow/goldish. You can also use Cosmoline spray but it doesn't completely dry...it stays tackey. The battery protectant will completely dry...then spray everything with a matte clear.
In 73, the factory used bolts to hold the K-member splash shields to the car...not rivets.
If your car is a Rallye, you should have the heavy duty torsion bars. They will have silver paint marks on them.
Here is a great link to check out...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=A12&Number=2669919&fpart=&PHPSESSID=
Topic: Tearing front suspension apart soon. Going to restore. Paint etc, info needed (Read 1061 times)
