Headlight switch question

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Offline Barracudadan

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Headlight switch question
« on: June 22, 2011 - 07:00:47 PM »
I am trying to figure out if my headlight switch is bad. When I test it with a 12 volt light I have power to the switch and when I turn on the switch power goes to the bottom spade which turns on the headlights. Should there also be any power at either of the two middle spades on the switch when power is made those two middle spades have nothing at them. I think power to the dimmer comes from one of these 2 spades. I picked up a used switch which does the same thing as my original switch,so I`m wondering if that one is bad too.

If anybody has a good switch they can check with a 12 volt test light and let me know what the results are I would appreciate it. Or better yet if someone can just tell me if power should be at those middle two spades with the switch in the on position is what I need to know.Thanks!




Offline Slotts

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2011 - 07:42:02 PM »
Yes, the headlight switch turns on and off two separate feeds by two separate power sources. The top and bottom blades control the headlights and the center two control the parking lights.

The dash dimmer switch does the same. Looking at the circuit board side, the left blade and the chassis control the dome light and the middle and right blades control the dash lights.

Passing voltage is only part of it. The real test is by using an ohm meter and reading 0 on full bright with the dimmer switch, dome light on, headlights on and parking lights on. Any reading less than 0 ohms means resistance is present and are not producing the most amount of lumens possible.

Of the batch of fifty dash dimmer switches I show being restored in the my JSR thread in the company section, only one worked correctly before being disassembled.

Slotts

Offline Barracudadan

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2011 - 08:33:36 PM »
Yes, the headlight switch turns on and off two separate feeds by two separate power sources. The top and bottom blades control the headlights and the center two control the parking lights.

The dash dimmer switch does the same. Looking at the circuit board side, the left blade and the chassis control the dome light and the middle and right blades control the dash lights.

Passing voltage is only part of it. The real test is by using an ohm meter and reading 0 on full bright with the dimmer switch, dome light on, headlights on and parking lights on. Any reading less than 0 ohms means resistance is present and are not producing the most amount of lumens possible.

Of the batch of fifty dash dimmer switches I show being restored in the my JSR thread in the company section, only one worked correctly before being disassembled.

Slotts
 

Thanks Slotts, but can I get that in Laymans terms? I understand the ohms part of your explanation but I still don`t understand if my switch is bad. Should there be power present at one or both middle spades of the headlight switch with switch in on position? Thanks again!

Offline Slotts

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2011 - 09:57:41 PM »
Ok, I am assuming you have the switch panel removed from it's screwed in position, but with the sockets still connected to the switches.

With your meter set on VDC, unplug the light switch socket and check the pink wire to ground and see if you have power. Next, plug the light socket back onto the switch, set the headlight switch to the middle position and check the double pair of black wires to ground. If there is no power, the light switch is the problem. If you do have power, you can go to the dimmer switch to check the dimming circuit.

One of those two black wires from the headlight switch then runs over to the dash dimmer switch on the right blade as you look from the circuit board side. Unplug the dash dimmer socket and with the headlight switch set in the center position, check if you have power to ground. If you do, then plug the dimmer socket back in and with the dimmer switch turned fully counter clockwise ckeck the tan center wire to ground and see if you have power. If you don't, the dimmer switch is the problem.

To check the dome light with the switch panel out, you will need to connect a jumper wire between the metal switch panel frame to a ground point. Now you can turn the dimmer switch until you get the click to lock on the dome light. If that doesn’t work, the dimmer switch is the problem. You can take a second jumper, connect to the double yellow wires to ground. That will be bypassing the dimmer switch and should like the dome light.

The screw on the bottom of the switch panel that is closest to the door is what passes ground from the dash frame to the switch panel. Without that screw in place, the dome light won’t work even if the dimmer switch works properly. 

I hope that helps narrow down the issues.

Slotts

Offline Moparal

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2011 - 10:00:07 PM »
Hey Jim :wave:   Your always spot on.  Got yer message. Im up north with the penguins

Offline Barracudadan

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2011 - 07:36:41 PM »
Thanks for the help Slotts, I thought I had my problem solved I tested the pink wire and was getting around 9 to 10 volts and with a little die-electric grease in that connection I was getting a good 12 volts and now sending power to the dimmer connection and when I started messing with the dimmer which turns out to be no good. It sparked a bit when I connected it so I was back to jumping it out and now find there is no power coming from the switch to the dimmer it looks as though I may have killed the headlight switch as well  :swear: I guess after almost 40 years of use these switches are a bit on the sensitive side.
So I am back to square one with copper wire wrapped around the headlight switch and a jumped out dimmer to make everything work. I will be getting some switches from you for sure!Thanks again for the help and at least now I understand how the voltage passes through the switches and where my problem was.

Offline Challenger6pak

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Re: Headlight switch question
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2011 - 10:43:24 PM »
I'd get switches as quickly as you can from Jim (Slotts).  If you have a short and lose your car to a fire, it will cost a lot more to replace than just the cost of the switches.  Disconnect the battery when the car is not in use.
1969 Sport Satellite H code convertible, 1970 Cuda 440+6, 1970 Challenger R/T 440+6, 1970 Challenger 383 R/T auto, 1970 Challenger R/T 383 4 speed,1971 Challenger convertible.