1970, 318 left bank blows tons of smoke

[Jocigar]

Hey guys,

After rebuilding the carb I've been working on the engine a little, changed the oil and belts.   After starting it up, it runs clean for 15 seconds and then the left bank smokes like crazy and the tail pipe is black with oil-sludge.   Other side is perfect.     

What/how do I find the problem? it could be rings since the left chambers had some water in them when I first starting working on it.   I read it may be the valve seat gaskets?  what is the best way to narrow it down before I resort to pulling the engine.

Any additive that may help?

(car has been sitting idle for 15+ years)

Thanks!!

[burdar]

It's possible that the rings just need to seat again.  My Challengers 318 did the same thing after sitting for 10+ years.  After it ran for awhile it stopped smoking.

Maybe you could pull the plugs and have a look at them.  That will tell you what's going on in the cylinders.  Are you sure it's oil smoke?  Burning antifreeze is white too.  There is a distinktive smell to burning antifreeze though.  If you are burning antifreeze, you most likely have a bad head gasket.  That would explain the water in the cylinders too.  Good luck.

[Jocigar]

Thanks,

I was hoping it would get better too, I have run it a few times now for short durations of 5-10 minutes. 

I ran it a few times with miracle marvel added to crank oil and the gas, and it seemed less smokey.  With a fresh oil change and new gas it's back to fumigating a 1/4 acre in 5 minutes or less.       

I had a similar idea with the plugs; I wonder if I can pull the wire while running to see if it stops and maybe ID the bad chamber as a start.

[bordin34]

Do you have a PCV system hooked up?

[jimynick]

Do a compression test on the old gal and look for uniformity- no more than 10 to a max of 15% variation, high to low, what ever the number is. There are no valve seat gaskets, but the valve guide seals
could most likely stand replacing and may be the cause of the smog. You can change 'em on the head, on the block, just make/buy a compressed air fitting to screw in the plug hole, run the piston up to TDC on the
cylinder, pressurize it and use the tool you bought to remove the valve spring and change them. Grab the valve stem when the spring is off and try to wiggle it side to side. Any appreciable
 movement indicates worn guides and a head rebuild in your future. Good luck.

[Jocigar]

Thanks All !  keep you posted as I dig in.