Voltage Regulator

[Talkwrench]

Is there anything to be aware of when purchasing a new voltage regualtor. I can get ones starting from $7.[ OEM brand + standard motor products] right through to $50?! are there any dud brands? dont want to get it out here  and find its no good.
Cheers.

[Talkwrench]

Now Im getting confused, seems to be many types. ThenI see thing like this.
"Product Description
To ensure your ignition and electrical system can provide maximum performance, install a constant output voltage regulator. Voltage is held at a costant 13.5 volts as opposed to the production regulator's fluctuation from 11.5 to 13.5. For race applications only."

Am I missing something ..? I thought most regulators on any car is 13.5 to about 14 volts tops??
Why race applications?

[burdar]

The RACE ONLY regulators keep the charging rate the same ALL THE TIME.  A production regulator is going to change the rate of charge depending on the needs of the battery.  If you use the RACE ONLY regulator on the street, you'll fry the battery.

Any parts store regulator will work just fine.  They won't look like what was origonally on your car though.  You can take a regular parts store regulator and cut one of the "ears" off (at an angle) like the factory one and then paint it black.  The other option is to just buy a restoration regulator from Summit.  Dave at Roseville should also have them.  It will come with the correct yellow Chrysler logo on it.

[Strawdawg]

some regulators offer the ability to charge at one fixed voltage in order to ensure the the ignition and fuel pump on a race car get all the voltage they need for consistent performance.  Most I have seen allow you to pick the voltage with a screwdriver adjustment for higher voltage than that.

Running a consistently too high voltage will shorten the life of a battery.

Modern car regulators often vary the voltage based on temperature.  Batteries have a higher internal resistance when cold and take a higher charging voltage to overcome the resistance and charge so you may see well over 14 volts when cold and tapering down to the high 13s as it warms up under the hood.

If your regulator tested bad, then I would buy the stock replacement

[Talkwrench]

Well you learn something every day.. I thought the norm was 13.5 charging, and a regulator helped it stay close to it..
I fitted  an alternator  replacing the old generator on my 56 Fairlane and that has an internal reg and it seems to be 13.7 just about all the time.. Again thought it was normal 

Guess I'll just buy a cheap chrome looking reg, doesn't have to be "correct" shes not a show car..

[Talkwrench]

went to buy a reg and now I see this .

PART # 3438150.These were used on early 70,s Dodge Plymouth Muscle Cars.This is Brand new and in the Mopar Box.Makes your car operate better as these contain Modern Electronics.Has a 419 Date Code For 1970 and Later Years.These are rated at 13.9-14.2 volts.This is much better for Brighter Lights and BATTERY LIFE

Why is this replacement higher than the constant 13.5 performance "race" one??

Is there a change from 71 onwards??

[Strawdawg]

because the electronics inside are more complex....it is not a simple one voltage output

I forget the year that Mopar switched from mechanical regulators to solid state which are much better.

[422STROKER]

I think that's the one I run. Has been reliable for 4+yrs so far.

Tom 

[Strawdawg]

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

Mopar went to the electronic alternator in '70 and then upgraded the alternator,itself, in '72 to the square backed model.