aftermarket ignition switches

[burdar]

I've got my steering column all torn apart and need to do something with the ignition switch.  The original switch worked fine but the connector at the base of the column is melted.  The burned connection was at the large blue wire.  At some point, male/female spade terminals were used on the blue wire to bypass the factory connector.

Aftermarket ignition switches are available from the local part stores for under $50  Has anyone used one of these switches?  The picture of the switch online shows a red and a black wire that are separate from the connector.  I'd like one that's just plug-and-play.  I don't want to have to modify it to fit the car.  I've got a friend looking for an NOS switch but that is going to be a lot more expensive.  If someone has used an aftermarket switch with good results I'll go that route.

 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ignition-Starter-Switch-BWD_3992462-P_2090_R%7CGRPSESWAMS_____

[dodj]

  The picture of the switch online shows a red and a black wire that are separate from the connector.

It looks to me like the red and black wires are out of the connector so you can see the electrical connector type. There are holes in the plastic connector for them to be inserted. Though they look kind of long...

I think it would be plug and play.

[burdar]

You can't get anything from the dealer anymore.  I just talked to my buddy at lunch.  I've got a new switch coming from Advance.  It will be here in the morning.  I'll compare it to the original one before I buy it.

I thought about trying to fix the original one but I wasn't too excited about splicing that wire.  The splice point would probably get hot and melt the wire eventually.

[wally426ci]

Im curious how this turns out. The chrome portion of mine is broken so it turns without the key in the cylinder, but the cylinder will only turn with the key.

[burdar]

The lock cylinder is a separate part.  I'm guessing that's what's wrong with yours.  I know you can get those on Ebay. 

I found a dealer that has the steering coupler on hand so I should be able to get the column back together this weekend.

[dodj]

Im curious how this turns out. The chrome portion of mine is broken so it turns without the key in the cylinder, but the cylinder will only turn with the key.

That happened to me and I just epoxied the chrome back on so it wouldn't spin without the key. Just a couple dabs, didn't want to overdo the glue!

[LAA66]

You can't get anything from the dealer anymore.  I just talked to my buddy at lunch.  I've got a new switch coming from Advance.  It will be here in the morning.  I'll compare it to the original one before I buy it.

I thought about trying to fix the original one but I wasn't too excited about splicing that wire.  The splice point would probably get hot and melt the wire eventually.

 If the switch is working OK, why not just solder in a new connector.

[TinCuda]

 

Watching


.,

[burdar]

That was an option but I just read where wires can break just after the soldered connection.  The solder makes the wire brittle.  I'd also have to try and find a new connector.

I'm not going to toss the original unit so if I have issues I can always look into having the original one restored...if that's possible.  I'm picking up the switch today so we'll see if it is a copy of the original.   

[joelson6]

hey Darren,

i just had to change the ignition switch in the '74  last weekend. i think the red and black wire aren't put in the connector because, depending on the year, those wires are in different locations in the plastic connector. just match it up with your old switch.


Greg

[burdar]

OK, here's the deal on that ignition switch.  Like most aftermarket parts, it's made to fit more than one application.  E-bodies use the pre-crimped ends that are on the switch.  75-76 Valiant, Duster, Dart and Dart Sport use a separate connector that is included with the switch.  You have to cut those two wires and crimp on two female spade terminals for that application. 

I wish it would have just come with two sets of loose terminals.  That way I could have cut the wires to the proper length before inserting them into the connector.  There is also an extra ground wire on the new switch that wasn't on the original switch.  Some applications had an extra ground...some didn't.

[burdar]

One final question reguarding this switch and the extra ground wire that the original piece didn't have.

There are two orange wires that come together in that pin location on the main dash harness.  I checked continuity between those wires and the orange rubber 3 prong connector that the light harness wires plug into.  I had continuity.  I think those orange wires are HOT aren't they?  That wouldn't be so good if those were connected to that other little ground wire in the ignition switch.