Author Topic: Removing Torsion Bar  (Read 3507 times)

Offline PappyJP

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Removing Torsion Bar
« on: July 14, 2012 - 06:41:52 PM »
I am new to the site and looking for advice... I am prepaing to remove the k frame from my Cuda and have supported the car on jack stands.  Since the car has not been touched in probably 25 years, every nut and bolt has been sprayed with wd40 and allowed to soak.  After which I figured I would back off the tension on the torsion bars and then start removing everything needed to drop out the frame. 

Unfortunately as soon as a put a wrench on the adjustment bolt - SNAP!  The bolt broke clean off.  Now I am not sure how much tension is left in the torsion bar (the LCA is not supported and at its lowest position) and a bit nervous to keep going.  Any suggestions on how I can safely remove the torsion bars and the rest of the k frame would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 14, 2012 - 06:54:07 PM by PappyJP »




Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2012 - 07:16:32 PM »
HI Pappy,

I'm not much help to you as I've never played with my torsion bars but I'm sure someone will chime in.

If the bolt broke off, did you unbolt it partly then it snapped?  If it didn't budge, you should still have the same tension, if it did move, I dunno, depends how far you turned it out.

They do sell new bolts and the adjuster that it goes through.  Hope it all works out!
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

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Offline PappyJP

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2012 - 07:52:48 PM »
It didn't move at all... Except to break :(

I guess I should not be surprised as I had 2 wheel studs on that same side that broke off.  The car has been neglected for a long time.  I just don't want to risk injury because the t bar is still wound up.

Offline ChallengerHK

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2012 - 08:03:13 PM »
Don't want to be a smartass, but for future reference, WD-40 is not penetrating oil. It's made to keep water out of parts (Water Displacement Formula Forty). It'll work OK as long as parts aren't really stuck, but for really stuck you need some penetrating oil.


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Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2012 - 10:43:36 PM »
I know you mentioned that the car was on jack stand but were the lower control arms all the way down (not supported by the jack stands), with no/minimal load on them?  That way you aren't fighting against the torsion bars when you back off the adjusters.
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline PappyJP

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2012 - 12:22:53 AM »
Thanks HK - Lesson learned the hard way...

The lower control arms are completely down and unsupported.  I might be able to weld a nut to the broken adjuster (there is probably half an inch sticking down) and after soaking it with penetrating oil, try backing it off again.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2012 - 07:25:21 AM »
just the heat of welding a nut to it should loosen it , you could also blow the end of the adjuster bolt off with a torch , it is going to have to be replaced anyway

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Offline PappyJP

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2012 - 06:39:57 PM »
 I ended up cutting the adjuster bolt and that did the trick.  Was able to get the k frame dropped as well.  I appreciate the help.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Removing Torsion Bar
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2012 - 09:23:20 PM »
 :2thumbs:

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