Author Topic: Master Cylinder  (Read 6795 times)

Offline 70mopar

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Master Cylinder
« on: June 16, 2012 - 08:34:29 AM »
I have noticed that alot of you have what seems to be a later model master cylinder on your E bodies like the one in this picture. I have a 1970 Challenger with manual drum brakes and the factory master cylinder with the single bolt in the center of the cover/lid. What is the master cylinder originally off of in the pic, and will it work on my car?

Thanks
« Last Edit: June 16, 2012 - 08:41:41 AM by 70mopar »




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2012 - 09:16:37 AM »
It is off the 80s Mopars , you have to be careful swapping cylinders , a small difference in bore size will affect pedal feel , larger bore will move more fluid & make the pedal harder to push , smaller bore will increase travel of the pedal , this is less critical with power brakes , with manual brakes it can be significant

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline 422STROKER

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2012 - 12:23:36 PM »
I know that car.... HAhaha.

I got it from Rehrenberg.  Finally stopped the leaky cap issue with it for now.

Tom

Make sure you research the bore size as Chryco stated it can affect the pedal feel.  Mine is firm but I like it with the manual brakes.  Good stopping power too.

If I were to do it again I'd get it from Dr Diff, seems he knows the products well and stands behind them.

Tom
12.77 @ 108.87 15" Street Drag radial tires 3.23 gear

Offline 70mopar

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2012 - 06:50:39 AM »
Thanks for the input guys, I'll check into it.

Offline MoparDealer1971

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2012 - 07:54:23 PM »
If you want to run this MC what sort of specific model or part number would be good?  My car was originally drum/drum manual.  For now I am leaving the car manual.  I have swapped to the 11in A-body discs on the front and plan to use the 77 truck (7/8 bore) wheel cylinders in the rear when I swap this MC.  I also plan to get the Mopar/Wilwood adjuster for the rears, or maybe the big sexy wilwood prop-valve setup.  What would I got to autozone and order to get a good MC with proper bore diameter?
1971 Dodge Challenger - 2010 Plum Crazy Pearl, 318 4-bbl, 904, 2.5in Pypes Performance X-pipe exhaust, Hemi torsion bars, 2in rear drop springs, Hellwig Motorsports sway bars, 11.75in Drilled/Slotted front brakes

Offline MoparDealer1971

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2012 - 03:19:13 PM »
I am seeing two bore sizes 1.13 and 1.03.  Are there other/better sizes out there?
1971 Dodge Challenger - 2010 Plum Crazy Pearl, 318 4-bbl, 904, 2.5in Pypes Performance X-pipe exhaust, Hemi torsion bars, 2in rear drop springs, Hellwig Motorsports sway bars, 11.75in Drilled/Slotted front brakes

Offline brads70

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2012 - 07:01:07 PM »
Just order it from Cass ( DrDiff) tell him what you have for brakes and he will fix you up. It's about $100 for the master and the adapter plate! :2thumbs:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline 68-383Bee

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2012 - 10:39:53 PM »
I agree. I have his master cylinder as well as brake system and it works great!
Charles

Offline Topcat

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2012 - 11:37:05 PM »
From Rick Ehrenberg: Mopar Action Tech questions Issue: 10/07 Vol 16 Number 8

Customer Wrote: I did away with my Vacuum booster. 440 engine. It's a big car and has a hard solid pedal feel now. Question: what is the p/n or application for a 7/8" bore Mopar master cylinder? It needs to be the older 4 bolt cast iron master cyclinder.

answer:
Tom you're right. either the pedal ratio (hard to change) or the hydraulic ratio (easy to change) is the fix. It's a give and take proposition to fix. As the pedal pressure required goes down, the pedal travel goes up. there's no free ride! That's why as much as I dislike em on a 4,000 lb car, a power booster is usually required or at least desired. there was a 15/16" bore unit used on a drum brake A bodies (Bendix P/N 11516) Now normally a drum master can't be used for 2 reasons: First is it has a front-outlet residual pressure valve, which would cause the front discs to drag like mad. Luckily this is easy way to remove. Then there's the smaller resivior size, which means you could run out of brake fluid before the pads have worn out. However, the online photos I have seen of this Bendix replacement show it having the larger "disc" resiviors. This same unit is shown for D100/150 pick-ups. Volares, early 70's B Bodies, etc., all with manual discs, so it may not even have the residual pressure valve.

Going from 1" to 15/16" may not sound like much, but it will result in 12 percent less pedal pressure, which will be noticable. If there's a large Mopar 7/8" unit out there, I'm not aware of it. Plus, many of the smaller brand X one's I've seen do not have the machined recess for the manual pushrod retainer. However, it may be out there somewhere, if a reader hooks me up with the ratio, I'll pass it along. 

 
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline MoparDealer1971

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Re: Master Cylinder
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2012 - 09:59:01 PM »
I ordered one for a 1985 Diplomat which according to the specs from the manufacturer is the same bore size (1.031) as what Dr. Diff sells in his kit on ebay.  I had already ordered the Mopar adapter so I didn't need that bit.  Total spend was $70.  I also ordered a adjustable prop valve off of amazon (looks like a wilwood) for $40 shipped.  So I have the same money in as the kit with shipping and I got the valve taken care of as well.  I don't imagine it will do much (the MC I mean) for performance because my stock Drum/Drum MC was 1.031....I just wanted the bling of the newer MC.  The 1.031 seems to be middle of the road between 7/8 and 1.31 from what I have read...I like my pedal feel now so I figured I would just stick with that.  The real improvement will come from the valve.  Next it is disc rears.
1971 Dodge Challenger - 2010 Plum Crazy Pearl, 318 4-bbl, 904, 2.5in Pypes Performance X-pipe exhaust, Hemi torsion bars, 2in rear drop springs, Hellwig Motorsports sway bars, 11.75in Drilled/Slotted front brakes