Per Brewers website
There are 2 different torque shafts (z-bars) for E-bodies.
The difference is the distance of the bottom offset arm to the end of the tube, one is 3/4"(stock big block size) the other is 1 1/4" (stock small block size).
This is where it gets confusing, the stock big block E-body torque shaft (3/4" distance) is used with the factory 10.5 bellhousing and a "straight" clutch adjusting rod.
If you are using the 11" bellhousing(or a Lakewood scatter shield) then you use the torque shaft from the small block which has the bottom arm 1 1/4" in which is 1/2" more inward to clear the wider 11" bellhousing...then you use the "angled" clutch rod.
Clear as mud.
Just got in from working on the clunker.
I was having trouble with the clutch fork coming off one of the clips on the throwout when I push the clutch pedal in and out multiple times.
Thankfully I have years of stashed 4 speed parts so I had both torque shafts and clutch adjusting rods.
So far with the small block torque shaft (1 1/4" in) and the angled clutch rod along with twisting the throwout clips tighter the clutch fork is playing nice and staying on the throwout bearing.
Pictured below is the inspection cover off my bellhousing...does it look like a 11" one to anyone?
I need to double check the pivot for the fork.
Below is the correct new pivot from Brewers, at the bottom is my current one.... I sure hope they are the same as swapping them out with everything currently installed would suck.