360 engine motor mounts and engine brackets

[chargerdon]

I have a 74 Challenger that started life as a 318 with 904 auto.   318 engine is long gone, and im attempting to put into it a 1976 360 engine.   I cant seem to find a good combination for the motor mounts, or more specifically the engine brackets.   

I thought that the 318 brackets should work, but, when i put the 318 brackets onto the engine the spacing to the auto transmission seems way off on the drivers side.   

see attached pictures, the one picture shows a bracket that fits on the drivers side ears well, but the spacing to the end of the engine is 18 inches, and I have measured 16 inches from the center hole on frame to the transmission.    THis bracket i believe was used to mount the engine into a 1971 dart.    The other bracket i have I believe was from the original 318 (orange one) but it doesnt seem to fit onto the engine ears properly...  maybe it was bent??  or simply wrong for a 360 ?? 

Any help for getting the proper engine brackets is appreciated.   

[Chryco Psycho]

The 340 / 360 mounts are different from 318 on the left side only .
 Schumakers should have the mounts you need among other sources or you can use spacers to make the 318 brackets work the second picture looks right with a spacer between the rear of the ear & the mount  .

[chargerdon]

Thanks!!   I see schumakers sells the entire kit on ebay for $144.   Year one sells just the drivers side bracket for $55 see: https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/rk57  I already had bought from local part store the new rubber mounts that go on the k frame.   Is this one correct also??    I hate to put shims on the old 318 to make it fit...   doesnt seem right. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I believe the front 2 bolts line up right  , you just need to use a spacer on the rear bolt , it will be nearly impossible to see it once everything is in place but it is your call if you want to buy  the correct left mount .
 Watch the rubber mounts though a lot are now made in India & will not last long , on the left side  I generally make a steel strap that goes from the block ear to the mount cross pin so that the mount cannot fail , this is a simple way to make a torque strap so the engine cannot move

[chargerdon]

Thank you for your help !!   I just now ordered the left (drivers side) bracket only from schumakers!!   I'll feel more comfortable with the correct bracket than putting in shims.   Good tip on the "safety" strap as well !!

[74 challenge]

I just did this with my 74 Challenger, I cut down a piece of carbon steel pipe to make a spacer and had a buddy tack weld it on, painted it factory low gloss black and it looks completely stock.  Engine should go back in over my Christmas holidays. I like the schumaker units myself but couldn't justify the price since my engine mounts were in great condition and didn't warrant replacement.

A lot of people use washers which is an ugly but acceptable way of doing it, I have also seen a nut welded on. You will not see it once it's installed.

Like Chryco Said the second picture is correct.

Chryco was basically the bible in my engine swap, listen to that guru lol. 

[chargerdon]

Ok, bought the Schumaker drivers side bracket and it seems to fit great.   

However, with engine installed it appears that the engine is NOT sitting perfectly level.  What is the allowable amount of lean from left to right.   Measuring with a level over the intake manifold carburetor flange my drivers side is 11/64 inch higher than the passenger side.    Reason is unknown.  Is that amount ok??   If not I suppose I could put in a 1/4 inch plate between the engine mount and the engine bracket on the passenger side to raise it 1/4 inch.   

Also, it is sitting higher in the front than at the firewall.   What is the allowable amount of rearward slope??   I read that all mopar engines are installed with a 3% rearward slope (to get a straight shot back to the axle universal) and that the intake manifold is built to take this up and give a level carb.  Measuring with a level again across the carbureator flange on the intake manifold it takes 5/32 drill bit under the firewall side to get it to show level.   Is that amount allowable??  If not then I guess  i have to somehow raise the transmission end closer to the floorboard ?   

Again across the carb flange I need 11/64 on passenger side to give left to right level, and 5/32 for front to rear to level in that direction.    Is this within limits?? 

[Chryco Psycho]

something is not right , a simple shim on the passenger side would be a decent solution  maybe ordering bth mounts would have worked better as the Schumaker mount may not be perfect  . What is the condition of the trans mount ?

[chargerdon]

something is not right , a simple shim on the passenger side would be a decent solution  maybe ordering bth mounts would have worked better as the Schumaker mount may not be perfect  . What is the condition of the trans mount ?

Trans mount appears to be fine...   "I" Never had it off.   Also, it appears that the output shaft of the 904 driveshaft and rear diff universal are all lined up ok.  So, Im tending to IGNORE the front to rear rake, unless someone says its a real problem.   Still concerned about the pass side to drivers side however.   

Again, is there any books stating allowable tolerance on this?

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

My 73 340 has about a 5 or 6 degree down from fan to tailshaft... they are made to sit like that... when the engine is correctly angled, the carb mount on intake is level. Also, seems like there was an offset right to left like you describe, and I read it somewhere, too... can't remember where it was put down in black and white, though... might be in the chassis manual, so I'll check and see... was supposed to help prevent vibration, as I recall...

[chargerdon]

Guys, I decided to put in the 1/4 "  plate between the motor mount and engine bracket on the passenger side.    Engine now "looks" better and it now is within a 1/16 of an inch on the carb flange from being level left to right.   This also helped on the front to rear rake, it now takes about 1/8 inch on carb plate to level it front to rear.     I think this is acceptable.   So thanks!!

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[chargerdon]

Well, I just broke the rubber on a stock motor mount after only 9 months.   

Luckily did no damage other than knocking some paint off of one of the hood supports with the fan blade.   I really don't like the idea of building a metal strap to hold it down, as that will make installation all the more difficult as well as probably creating more vibration with a metal to metal connection strap. 

Was looking at Mancini's http://www.manciniracing.com/maheduenmo.html MagMount Heavy Duty.   They advertise "Bolt-through design locks up under acceleration, prevents blow-outs - provides the durability of a solid mount without sacrificing the smooth ride of rubber" 

 This sounds like a good replacement for the stock rubber mounts.   It is no fun replacing a motor mount, as with my headers there isnt any room to get the main bolt to K member out, without removing the header on the driver side.   So, want to put in something that will last !!

Anybody have any experience with them