Author Topic: Wheel hop  (Read 4628 times)

Offline 1970 RT Challenger 1970

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Re: Wheel hop
« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2012 - 12:33:22 PM »
Hemi Springs and a Pinion Snubber is what you need.




Offline Aracer

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Re: Wheel hop
« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2012 - 03:16:46 AM »
After a few dozen runs the medium setting on my C.E. 3-way extra long rear drag shocks for a-body seem too soft, so I set them at the stiffest. I have the 2800 passenger side SS leafs on both sides, with the front two leafs turned back on the drivers side to give some bias to the car. It worked better than the real SS drivers # that is better suited to a 4,000 rpm stall converter. 
      I like evenly arched springs, then the front end is more evenly loaded. There is plenty of height for 28.5" tall slicks but the 29"slicks touched the front of the wheel well, on both sides slightly, so I won't use them again on this 1968 car.  The 3.91 and 275/60--15" radials will have to do for now.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2013 - 09:35:32 PM by Aracer »

Offline ek3

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Re: Wheel hop
« Reply #17 on: October 29, 2012 - 08:28:14 PM »
wheel hop is caused by loading and un-loading of the rear tires. shocks will help but,  only to fine tune the weight transfer. the most common reason for this condition is weak front spring segments [cryco correct]. afco and landrum offer a great set of  " Re-enforced  front segment ''  leafsprings for a cars by overall weight .you can  get a set for around 250$ from speedway motors . a pinion snubber will help plant the weight but the weak spring can't handle the load u have now ..more load = more spring deflection !! the stiffer bushings are a plus...

Offline 73EStroker

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Re: Wheel hop
« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2012 - 07:35:35 PM »
KYBs??? They should take the 'B' off and stick to making jelly. They are useless junk. New NA manufactured Subarus have them and Japan made ones have Koni.
Barry (Salmon Arm)