Back again! With more issues.

[4x4HEMIrig]

Hey guys! I'm finally back after a couple schools and a long deployment. I visit the site again bearing mediocre news and bad news. I'll start with the mediocre.

My return from deployment was less than desirable. My now ex-wife decided we couldn't maintain our constant arguing and ignoring of each other any longer.

Okay, now that that's over. On to the bad news ... The starter decided to crap out on me a few weeks ago in the Chally. I got a new MSD mini starter to install. As I began to remove the headers on the driver side, coolant started to leak from all four cylinders. I can only imagine the passenger side has the same problem.

In a simple starter swap, I discovered a whole mess of problems which could result in a new engine build.

Therefore, on to the question ... What do you guys think is wrong? (Keep in mind, I just had the top end reworked a little over a year ago and the car has not run very much in that time.) If you think the block is bad, what should I look for as a replacement? (The lower the build cost, while maintaining quality, the better.)

[dutch]

isnt that coolant coming from the header bolt holes...?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Coolant coming out the header bolt holes is normal. 

What other issues are you having?

[72cudamaan]

isnt that coolant coming from the header bolt holes...?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Sorry about the divorce , life happens I guess .
 I agree with all above no problem just seal the headerbolts when you re-install them so they do not leak in the future .

[4x4HEMIrig]

I had no idea the header bolts were open to the water jacket!

Should I drain the coolant before I pull the headers?

I'm thinking about pulling the motor out and doing a full rebuild anyway. I definitely need to have the heads and the block done. The cylinders were never honed. The guy I had do the top end wanted to do a full rebuild. But I didn't have the money at the time (still don't). However, now I don't have to worry about what she thinks. I just have to do it on a budget.

When I do the rebuild, what parts should I order to make it run perfectly? I'm running a 30 over, cammed 383. All the details are in my signature block.

My oil pump is pushing up to 75# when I put my foot in it and blows oil out of the breathers. I have a fair amount of leakage coming from the base of the valve covers at the rear of the engine. I really want to put a new intake and carb on it.

I also found a ton of body issues while I had the car in the air. A lot of rust holes in the corners of the floors that someone put patches over.I'll adress those in another post.

[Road_Runner]

I had no idea the header bolts were open to the water jacket!

Should I drain the coolant before I pull the headers?

I don't know if its absolutely necessary but I always drain down the radiator to a level below the heads if I'm pulling the headers.  You'll still get a few trickles but that's about it.  I know some of the newer aftermarket heads correct this which is a major plus to me since I've had issues through the years with the header bolts not always sealing well & leaking coolant.

What are you interested in doing to your 383?  Mine loved both the Edelbrock DP4B dual plane and Torker single plane intakes.  An open 1" spacer helped the DP4B if you have room between the aircleaner & hood.  I've also run a six pack on mine which looked really cool and when in tune ran very hard. 

Sorry about your marriage, I know being overseas during wartime is always tough on relationships.  But as you say, its over so put it behind you & enjoy the Challenger!

Later, Jim