Author Topic: US CarTool Subframe Connectors  (Read 1049 times)

Offline GCC

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US CarTool Subframe Connectors
« on: January 06, 2013 - 10:34:53 AM »
I have a pair of these all fitted up and ready to weld in.  At the torsion bar crossmember, they are designed to be welded as a "T" joint to the crossmember on the vertical section.  The lower flange laps over the bottom of the crossmember for a lap joint.  Seems to me those vertical "T"-joint welds would be high stress areas.  Has anyone had any trouble down the road after installation with these welds?  Maybe it's no big deal, just wondering.  I did fab some little flanges for these vertical sections, but there isn't much room on the crossmember with the large holes and the torsion bar sockets.  Just don't want those welds to tear out.




Offline 73restomod

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Re: US CarTool Subframe Connectors
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2013 - 12:17:43 PM »
You could gusset it for extra strength. Than will increase the surface area of the weld and its load will spread over a larger area. Also, I would recommend welding a backing plate to the torsion bar cross-member. Drill a hole pattern in its face to spot weld it in the middle; then weld its perimeter.

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Offline Haddixj

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Re: US CarTool Subframe Connectors
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2013 - 03:20:18 PM »
  :useless:

Offline rhamson

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Re: US CarTool Subframe Connectors
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2013 - 09:04:47 AM »
I have a pair of these all fitted up and ready to weld in.  At the torsion bar crossmember, they are designed to be welded as a "T" joint to the crossmember on the vertical section.  The lower flange laps over the bottom of the crossmember for a lap joint.  Seems to me those vertical "T"-joint welds would be high stress areas.  Has anyone had any trouble down the road after installation with these welds?  Maybe it's no big deal, just wondering.  I did fab some little flanges for these vertical sections, but there isn't much room on the crossmember with the large holes and the torsion bar sockets.  Just don't want those welds to tear out.
I installed their set on my Challenger and I thought about the same thing. I came to the conclusion that if they were not welded to the floor it would be a real problem. In essence the floor boxes off the frame and the weight is carried through to the other side of the floor and that gives it the continuity. The other thing is that you are able to get good heat penetration at that joint because the two peices are of equal thickness.