Through floor frame connectors?

[autoshopguy]

I have been trying to decide what type of frame connectors to use and have found a few older threads on through frame connectors but the pictures don't display.  Does anyone have any pictures of the trough fame connectors both inside and under car?  I like the looks of the US cartool better than any other weld on sets I've seen but they are still only 3/4 " tall in the center and at $170 are a little on the pricey side for the amount of steel.  Also through a through floor set would take care of the only small rust issue I have found in the floor pans.   

[moprr]

I made my own through the floor connectors and welded them in (sorry no pics).  Now I wish I would of went the US cartool way even if they require some work.  If you go through the floor you will have them entering the floor at the rear seating area.   

[nqkjw]

Follow this link to an Aussie forum showing the connectors I did in my 69 cuda.
Should be what you're looking for.
Car has done 402 passes now and no problems.
Let me know if the link doesn't work and I'll put the pics up here for you.

http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=7435&hilit=chassis+connectors+101

[autoshopguy]

I think I have a plan for limited floor pan intrusion.  Start out low and into the rear  frame rails with 1 3/4 x 2 tube (about 1/2" higher than floor) following the rear frame angle.  At the point it is even with the floor pan switch to 3X2 tube (angle cut on 1 3/4 should make it about 2")  also tapering the 3X2 to fit the 2" tall tube.  continue straight up to the T-bar cross member slightly trough the floor pan.  After carpet removal the floors are mostly solid with some rust in areas so I don't feel bad about cutting them up a little.  I really love this car for what I want solid but not perfect and a 318 auto car so nothing special so I can hot rod it a little. 

Any input on that idea?

[jimynick]

At the end of the day, it's your car and your call. But just out of curiosity, why go to all that cutting, tapering, reducing, slicing, dicing etc. when you could buy a set of the conformal US Cartool ones for under $175 and not only have a better fitting/looking product, but not spend 2 weeks under the car reinventing the wheel, so to speak! Just my 

[footin70rt]

This is a good thread on thru floor sub frame connectors.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=78933.msg797017#msg797017

[rhamson]

I used the US Cartool frame connectors and they seem to do the trick. You have to remember that in reality you are boxing in the frame by using the floor in conjunction with the u-tube that is supplied with the kit. I talked with John the engineer at US Cartool at Carlisle and he said they found that by bending the connector where it is that the strength is not compromised due to the use of the thickness of the steel with relationship to the floor steel and that it is not invasive to the interior and carpet fit.

[autoshopguy]

Thanks for the links and pictures.

As far as weld on frame connectors go I do think the USCartool set looks the strongest.  I was planning on using them until I pulled the rear carpet.  The drivers rear floor pan is rusted right where the connectors would weld on with very little rust in any other area.  When I saw that my immediate thought was through floor connectors would take 90% of the rusted area out.  The more I look at it the more I think that's the case (still need to clean it up and find out for sure).  It will still have a small section to the tunnel side of the connector that needs a patch but towards the outside looks great.  I really don't want to get involved in proper a floor pan replacement at this point for several reasons and I do think the rectangular tube connectors will be stronger.  I have also been thinking about putting a cage in the car (not right now) at which point the rear floors are the least of a back seat passengers worries.  I tend to push cars a little harder than normal people so a little stronger would be a good thing. 

[cudazappa]

I used Auto Rust Techincians's (autorust.com) frame connectors on my challenger.  They aren't supposed to be through the floor, but on my car, i still needed to slit the rear floors for them.  They come up level with the floor and are completely invisible under the carpet.  They are made with 2x2x.125w steel and are incredibly strong.  They are stronger than the floor-contour units.  A 2x3 would be even stronger.

[rhamson]

Thanks for the links and pictures.

As far as weld on frame connectors go I do think the USCartool set looks the strongest.  I was planning on using them until I pulled the rear carpet.  The drivers rear floor pan is rusted right where the connectors would weld on with very little rust in any other area.  When I saw that my immediate thought was through floor connectors would take 90% of the rusted area out.  The more I look at it the more I think that's the case (still need to clean it up and find out for sure).  It will still have a small section to the tunnel side of the connector that needs a patch but towards the outside looks great.  I really don't want to get involved in proper a floor pan replacement at this point for several reasons and I do think the rectangular tube connectors will be stronger.  I have also been thinking about putting a cage in the car (not right now) at which point the rear floors are the least of a back seat passengers worries.  I tend to push cars a little harder than normal people so a little stronger would be a good thing.

If you are serious about the rear pans being rusted where they will be notched to clear the connectors you should replace the pans as well. I think you will find it very hard to weld the thin old metal that is probably thinner from rust than you expect to the thick metal of the frame connector.

[autoshopguy]

They might be thinner than I expect.  That's something I'll find out when they get cut if they are to thin it will be a larger project.