Re-install over center spring, EZ-est technique for? (INSIDE car)

[slsc98]

Good evening, all!

2 questions:

1) What is the easiest technique for RE-installing the over center spring onto the clutch pedal when the pedal assembly is STILL installed?

Hoping to 'work smart' and removing the pedal assembly from insiade the car is not an option for me.

I thought (as in, relying on my memory . . . what was I talking about?) I saw a past post about a trick using a bottle jack or something to expand the spring and then insert spacers between coils . . . 

2) How far / how much do I have to 'expand' the spring coils to get both ends of the spring installed on their respective ends, inside the firewall? (after which I will use pliers to remove the spacers) 1/8"? 1/4"? more?

Thanks in advance!   

[Chryco Psycho]

I have been able to install them with a pair of water pump pliers in the past , or put the spring in a vice & twist the spring side to side & slide spacers between the coils .

[slsc98]

I have been able to install them with a pair of water pump pliers in the past , or put the spring in a vice & twist the spring side to side & slide spacers between the coils .

10-4, thank you, sir! 
Hope all is well (they're callin' for freezing temps up here, tonite) 

PS - Ooops, almost forgot to ask / ascertain: approx. How far / how much space do I need to create?

[Chryco Psycho]

not sure how much longer it needs to be but you can figure it out
 Freezing temps in Panama , I doubt it 

[slsc98]

not sure how much longer it needs to be but you can figure it out  Freezing temps in Panama , I doubt it 

10-4 on it becoming obvious to me; and, Oh no, I meant they were calling for overnight freezing up here in Maryland last night -- and that you should be extra happy to be down there, in Panama!   (My wife has her '66 GTO and now all she wants is for us to end up on FLA's Gulf Coast!)

One last question (for now) (that I hope I don't have to figure out)  : Roughly how many (or, what range of) rpms are being referred to as, "high speed shifting" when some diaphragm clutches have gotten "stuck" in the down position?

In other words, doing a lot of browsing since joining (learning as opposed to just lurking), it has occured to me that it might help other help me if I start stating my own driving habits, intended uses of my car, etc.

I don't race and am only highway crusin and showin' my car, right now; by any chance, will the fact that I don't anticipate shifting at any rpms over 4,000 reduce the chances of (if not preclude) my encountering the diaphragm clutch phenomenon of "stuck pedal"?
 

Full story: I took the over center spring out of my car (against the mild protestations of my buddy / mechanic) after I installed a Mcleod diaphragm clutch.

Clutch action / pedal force required is a thousand times improved -- especially cosnidering the kind of traffic I am encountering until our planned move -- but, after several attempts at adjusting clutch, the clutch pedal has now (3x in 10 days) kept "returning" to a point where there is no freeplay in the pedal when its at rest.

I figure, what do I have to lose by putting the OC spring back in and trying to drive it that way, for awhile?

I realize that some Centerforce diaphragms have exhibited a tendency to have the pedal "stick" in the down position during at high rpm shifts but,

I am hoping the fact mine is a McLeod, combined with the facts that: a) my 440Magnum is routinely tached out at 3,000 to 3,500 rpm when I'm in 4th cruising at highway speeds (60- 75mph); and, b) since I don't race and don't imagine too many scenarios where I would ever shift at any rpm over 3,500 to 4,000 that, I may not even need to worry about the "stuck clutch".

Then again, I'm not sure what # the others are referring to as 'high' rpm's.

Thanks again and, Happy New Year!

[Mopar_Mudder]

I just put mine on and used the brut force method. I hooked the srping on the fire wall end, then the end that goes on the pedal I found a small chain that the spring would just fit through the loop in the chain. So I hooked the chain to the spring and ran a screw drive throgh another loop a couple feet away to make a nice handle. Place your feet against the fire wall and give a big old grunt as you pull to stretch the spring and pull it on to the peg on the pedal.

[Chryco Psycho]

I can't remember exactly what rpm  but I know the pedal has stayed on the floor above 4500.

[73EStroker]

CP's water pump pliers make this job a breeze. Hook it around the firewall end first and use the pliers at the top. Mine was so easy it was almost kindergarten material. Surprised me as I had bulked up in preparation. What a letdown. The spring is barely in tension with the pedal at the top.