ok, will prob leave as-is then. What's your thoughts on the ignition connector? Seems like a lot of folks have burnt connectors or resistance build up there. Good idea to replace the igniton switch and turn signal cam?
On another thread, one guy had recommended bypassing the plug and hard connecting the red and black leads? He also mentioned something about adding an alternator ground, checking the core support grounds and by-passing something with the ammeter guage leads that would reduce voltage passing thru the firewall.
I found the thread and quoted it below. This was a response by T-Quad to my problem where my steering column connector was getting hot. Let me know what you think I would like to know the best way to put this thing back in service.
Grounding the alternator case is just insurance for a properly grounded electrical system to produce clean 12 volts dc. At the battery be sure to check the grounds on the core support . There should be at least one ground from the voltage regulator to the back of the engine. Thats a total of 3
Use braided type ground straps-nappa has them too.
You have good chance for a meltdown. A new switch is order ASAP. When you install the switch you have to disassemble the steering column. My best advice is to carefully remove the column from the car and do the job on the bench. At the connector you have to do a bypass of the red and black leads [they are large wires] by but splicing using solder type butt spices [nappa store]. You also must carefull check the wires that feed thru the bulk head-thay may be old, brittle and discolored.
As to the bypass:
From the output post of the alternator run a 14 gage wire to the post on the starter relay. Use quality properly sized terminals on each end and run the wire along the existing harnesses-use a black wire as the factory did-this cuts the currrent passed thru the firewall it 1/2 of what it was. It minimizes any voltage drops in the system.
