The alignment will cure the puling to the left.
The hard steering will get SLIGHTLY better when the ball joints, idler and pitman arms wear in however the increase in caster will make the car ride a bit more harsh and make the static steering harder. If you go with PS then a Firm Feel is great (I recommend level II) and get it BEFORE you pay for an alignment.
poly bushing are going to make the ride harsher. Even if you lube them as directed there is still going to be some friction inside the bushings that will make the ride stiff.
When I did my restoration back in the mid 90's, I went with all of the fancy stuff you mentioned. I was living in Florida at the time and the roads were decent quality.
After moving back to California, I discovered that this crazy "state" was paying all of the gas tax money on health care for illegal immigrants and life time pensions for those freaky professors who made my life miserable back when I was in college instead of fixing and maintaining the roads.
I found that the nice winding roads were real scenic and all and those iconic roads...could...be fun to play around in HOWEVER the roads were soo frickin crappy and bumpy that the ride was not much fun.
I threw all of that poly crap out and went back to OEM rubber bushings, I got rid of the "High Performance" torsion bars and went back to normal "Heavy Duty" torsion bars, regular thickness leaf springs, and regular gas shocks (not the high performance fillings-knock-er-out-ers).
I still have front and rear sway bars and wide 40 series tires and I have NOT noticed ANY difference in the handling characteristics...except now the ride is more tolerable. I can still hit the turns way faster than the posted speed limit and scare the heck out of myself.
Yes I'm sure that IF I ever took it to the track I would notice some difference of "body roll" or "tuck" at 130 MPH hard braking or whatever but in 28 years of owning this car it has only seen a (drag) race track and that was only a couple of times (until they closed down Bay Lands Drag Way 20 years ago).
In my humble opinion most of that stuff looks good in the advertisements and will do some good at the very...very...extreme however MOST Mopar street cars only need OEM rubber (with the Moog offset bushings installed 180 degrees out to give a bit more caster for highway speed stability), thick sway bars front and rear, wide low profile tires, and a Firm Feel steering gear with the longer pitmanand idler arms, and some modern gas charged shocks to make a REAL NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE over OEM. Then to go the extra mile a small block car could go with AAR/TA thickness torsion bars and leaf springs and a big block car could go with 440 bars and springs and I bet most drivers (and their families) would be very happy with that combination considering the state of the roads in most parts of the country. If you wanted to then have a car that you take to the road track on rare occasion then get the adjustable shocks and turn the adjusters all the way down when you get to the track and then back to the softer setting for the ride home.
Now...lets hear everyone elses "humble opinions"
Topic: First Drive after Suspenssion rebuild (Updated after 100 Miles) (Read 2698 times)
