Buffing paint 101

[4Cruizn]

So I would like to learn to properly wheel out my cars paint as it has aquired some scratches and I am not happy about them.  So my questions are:

1) what speed do you wheel out the paint at?
2) what type of pad . . . foam or wool? 
3) what type of compound? 

Just so we are clear . . . my paint is good but just trying to remove some scratches.  Probably start out with a clay bar and then would like to try to tackle some of the scratches. 

I have been looking around at this link and some of the info is helpful but looking for personal advice.   Or should I just pay someone to do it?  http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html

So this is the buffer that I currently have . . . . 1000 to 3000 RPM  http://www.surface-repair.com/dewalt-buffer-polisher-variable-speed-to-3000-rpm/?gclid=CN-F_O3RxrkCFdAWMgoddQkAxA

[shawge]

Sharing what I've learned since I'm new at polishing and just did part of my car.  I practiced on my truck before working on the fresh paint on my Challenger.  I've gathered this info from watching vids on YouTube and reading through the various painting forums (my favorite is autobodystore.com.)

There was some trash in the paint so I had to color sand parts of it with 1200 - 1500 grit to get rid of the nibs and orange peel.  After that I progressed up from 2000 to 2500 grit to get a semi-smooth finish.  You might need to do this step if the scratches are deep, else skip to the swirl removal/polish step.

For products, I bounced between using Sure Finish and Mystic Cut.  I liked these since they can both be used from scratch removal to polish.

Removing scratches:  I seasoned the wool pad with a little water, put a ribbon of compound on the paint, spread it around on the paint and pad before turning the polisher on.   I set the polisher speed to around 1000 rpm, turned it on and worked the compound into the paint.  When finished the paint should be smooth (no sanding scratches) and have some swirl marks.

Some key points:
Tilt the polisher so that the inside edge of the wool pad is doing work, think 9 - 12 - 3 o'clock positions
Start off on a 2x2 foot area, remember the process that was used so it can be duplicated. Repeat until finished.
Keep the pad moving, don't stay in one spot too long else the paint will burn.
Be aware of edges and body lines. Angle the pad to run off edges else a burn through could happen.  I was paranoid so I taped off the edges and lines.
Spur the pad between uses to get rid of old compound and loose wool fibers.

Swirl removal: After the wool pad I used an orange foam pad (firm) to get rid of the swirl marks.  Almost the same steps as above: apply ribbon of product (not using water) and work the products into the paint and pad.  Set the polisher speed to around 1000 rpm, turn it on and polish out the swirl marks. 

Key points from the compounding step still apply in the swirl removal step, some differences though:
Keep foam pad somewhat flat to panel, more working area
Start off in 2x2 area
Keep pad moving
Be aware of edges/lines
Spur foam pads with old toothbrush

Polishing: After the orange pad I used a black foam pad (soft, some use a white pad) to polish the paint.  Same steps as the orange pad except set the speed a little higher to around 1500 rpm.

I used a microfiber cloth to remove any remaining residue.

I have not waxed the paint yet since it's new.

[4Cruizn]

Ok that helps!  Anyone else?   

[Rich G]

Buy the Paintucation video by Kevin Tietz (I think that's how you spell it) Eastwood has it if you cant find it anywhere else. Very good info and he explains it well and makes it look easy. It's always a bit scary riding the edge of perfection or disaster! Especially if you don't know how much paint or clear you have to work with.

[hooD]

I use a porter cable orbital buffer with foam pads....i bought a 3 pack of pads that had orange, blue and green.  I use meguirers #7  after claying out the paint.

Everyone will have a different opinion of what they use and their favorite products.  It's kind of like making chili...to each their own.

I always had excellent results removing fog/haze and minor swirl marks from black paint/clear coat with the above mentioned products.  Believe me, black paint is the hardest color to make look flawless.  Good luck with your research.

[RzeroB]

Do you have any extra body panels (trunk lid, door, hood, etc) that you could practice on first? I was a little nervous the first time I used a buffer so I went to a couple of body shops and picked up a damaged hood to practice on. Being that they sell all their damaged panels for scrap I got it pretty cheap - $20 I think. Then I took a screw driver, put some scratches in it of different severity, and practiced, practiced and practiced some more before I felt confident enough to move to my car.

[4Cruizn]

Do you have any extra body panels (trunk lid, door, hood, etc) that you could practice on first? I was a little nervous the first time I used a buffer so I went to a couple of body shops and picked up a damaged hood to practice on. Being that they sell all their damaged panels for scrap I got it pretty cheap - $20 I think. Then I took a screw driver, put some scratches in it of different severity, and practiced, practiced and practiced some more before I felt confident enough to move to my car.

I am going to pratice on my 02 Suburban which is also black . . . if I mess it up . . . it will be fine.  Then move to the car. 

I still would like to know what pad to use for scratches and then what product?   

[72cudamaan]

Dave, I've been using the yellow foam pad with 'mystic cut' compound. Looks great.

[torredcuda]

Any buffing is basically the same whether it`s stainless, aluminum or paint. Depending on how deep the scrtatches are you start with a course compound and step down to finer compounds. I still use the old 3m compound on a wool pad then microfinsihing compound on a foam pad and finish with Megiurs glaze. You can probably skip the first step as it`s a fairly aggressive compound for use on wetsanded area.

[Travis72]

If it's an older paint job then autogeek.net has some good tips and tricks and videos.  Here's another one as well, but this is more for a car that was just freshly painted:

Buffing Out Clear Coat to a Show Shine 1968 Pontiac Firebird MUSCLE CARS & HOT RODS Episode 125

I would recommend you buy a 3 pack of pads which should consist of a wool and 2 different foam pads.  Then you need the compounds to go along with each pad.

Travis
72 Cuda

[4Cruizn]

So are you saying there is certain compounds for each color pad?   

[06Daytona]

I used to work at a detailing shop when I was in my early 20s so I've done a few cut polishes. We used a fluffy wool pad. The kind with the hole so you attach it to the arbor, not the bonnet type with the string to hold it on. Go to a paint store to get the cutters, they'll have stuff that parts stores don't have and they'll be able to tell you the proper grit for what you're doing. I'd recommend getting applicator pads just because they're handy. Squirt a littlr cutter on the paint, smear it around with  the pad and start polishing it off while it's still wettish. It's a little messy and will throw specks all over the place, but it works better in my opinion. Make sure the wheel is spinning so it's going off edges and not into them and don't be afraid don't  be afraid to use the side of the polishing pad sometimes. Once you've gone over it with the gritty stuff, you can either step down to less grit, or go with polish right away. For the wax or polish I use an orbital polisher and usually apply with an applicator pad the first time so I can make sure I get in all the little spaces, let it dry and then remove/buff with the polisher with a terry cloth bonnet on it. For the wax/polishes after that I use the orbital to apply the wax because it's quicker and it puts it on nice and thin for easy removal. I pick up the majority of my cutters and polishes at the paint store because it's better quality than Wal mart for the most part and you can get stuff specifically for show car style paint.
 

[Travis72]

Yes, each pad uses a different compound (varying in aggressiveness of the cut).  I would recommend you buy a 3 pack of the pads, then pick which brand you like (3M, Mothers, Meguires, etc.) and buy each of the 3 compounds (typically heavy cut/rubbing compound, swirl mark remover, then a polish).  It really depends on how bad you paint is and if you are wet sanding it before.  It you just need to bring it back to life a less aggressive compound might be best.

These Drive Clean detailer videos on youtube are the best, most anal videos I've ever seen!  There's like a 20 minute video on just cleaning glass. lol

Polishers and Swirl Removal Tips -- /DRIVE CLEAN

Travis
72 Cuda

[4Cruizn]

Travis72 . . . helpful info for sure!  So all I really want to do is remove some scratches . . . certainly nothing bad.  So if I get some swirl mark removal compound and the proper pad, what speed do I run?  Looks like it goes from 1000 - 3000 RPM  . . . is faster better?  Don't want to screw up anything . . . . 

So I figure I will clay bar everything and then hit it with some compound for the scratches and then finish with some polish.   I will definitely practice on something else before hitting an ebody . . . 

[torredcuda]

Slower is better ecspecially for a novice! 1000-1500 is good and keep the buffer moving back and forth, don`t stay in one spot too long or let the compound gum up. If the scratches are not too deep use a microfinish or fine compound on a foam pad,.Stay away from edges as much as possible and always buff off the edge, masking tape any sharp edges if you have to get close to them. Wash any leftover compound off before going to the polish. Grab a Chevy and practice!!! 

really don`t need to bother with the clay bar as the compound will remove anything the bar will and more. Keep in mind any buffing is actually removing material from the high spots to smooth out the surface.