Author Topic: Bottom radiator hose question  (Read 10013 times)

Offline Gus cuda

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #30 on: October 01, 2014 - 07:15:06 AM »
I replaced the bottom hose after the rad was replaced hoping that was the problem. Rad is from "cool craft", it is a direct replacement made by US Radiator. As for aftermarket gauges, my mechanic also says I should get some auto meters so we know exactly what's happening. I don't really want to add these to the interior, but will if I have to. I am gonna replace the stat with the 160* that was in it this weekend, and pay close attention to getting all of the air out of the system. As for the sending unit, my mechanic installed it. If I pull it out, will I visually see if it is damaged?




Offline cudabob496

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #31 on: October 01, 2014 - 07:18:30 AM »
got a hole drilled in stat? Helps vent air.
you can mount an electric temp gauge under dash.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Gus cuda

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #32 on: October 01, 2014 - 07:47:50 AM »
Yessir, drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the stat

Offline 74 challenge

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #33 on: October 01, 2014 - 07:51:03 AM »
I replaced the bottom hose after the rad was replaced hoping that was the problem. Rad is from "cool craft", it is a direct replacement made by US Radiator. As for aftermarket gauges, my mechanic also says I should get some auto meters so we know exactly what's happening. I don't really want to add these to the interior, but will if I have to. I am gonna replace the stat with the 160* that was in it this weekend, and pay close attention to getting all of the air out of the system. As for the sending unit, my mechanic installed it. If I pull it out, will I visually see if it is damaged?

I'm running a cool craft rad and it's awesome.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #34 on: October 01, 2014 - 05:21:59 PM »
I replaced the bottom hose after the rad was replaced hoping that was the problem. Rad is from "cool craft", it is a direct replacement made by US Radiator. As for aftermarket gauges, my mechanic also says I should get some auto meters so we know exactly what's happening. I don't really want to add these to the interior, but will if I have to. I am gonna replace the stat with the 160* that was in it this weekend, and pay close attention to getting all of the air out of the system. As for the sending unit, my mechanic installed it. If I pull it out, will I visually see if it is damaged?
Generally you won't see anything as it is a tapered thread but I have seen a couple where they had a step along the threaded surface but they were installed by a Gorilla.
  Drilling a small hole in the thermostat is a good idea, bleeding our MOPAR systems is usually not needed as the filler point is the highest point, after the thermostat opens all air should be gone.
  Checking temps with a Master Gauge is always good as a lot of aftermarket gauges and in fact our 40+ old gauges become suspect.
  We don't usually need a catch tank or overflow bottle on our unmodified cars but it is always a good backup ensuring the radiator is always full, if you do fit one make sure you get the right radiator pressure cap as they have a rubber seal under the top.
  Hope this helps some. 

   Aussie    :2thumbs:
Dave

Offline Gus cuda

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #35 on: October 04, 2014 - 07:42:16 PM »
Ok fellows, looks like the 160* stat brought the ol girl back into the happy zone. Took her for a spin, ran her hard and the gauge never went over half way! Just a tid-bit of info about thermostats, i put the 180* in boiling water, and it didnt start cracking until 190* and wasnt fully open till 205. Put the 160 in water, and it didnt start cracking till 170* and fully opened at 188*. Dont know if this is normal or not. Anyhow, right now my old engine seems happy happy! Whew! Man i was worried sick! Anyhow, thx as always for all the help! Hope she's ok for a while.

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #36 on: October 04, 2014 - 09:57:24 PM »
think you wanna have your fan 1/2 inch from radiator too.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline dodj

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #37 on: October 04, 2014 - 11:02:49 PM »
Sorry to disagree but the spring does not restrict the flow of water it is there to stop the hose collapsing and a good thing to have.
You don't have to be sorry, feel free to disagree with me anytime.  :grinyes:
IMO, the cooling hose will only collapse if you have other cooling system problems and a spring takes up space in the hose reducing space for the coolant, causing a flow restriction. :2cents:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
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Offline cudabob496

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #38 on: October 04, 2014 - 11:23:09 PM »
You don't have to be sorry, feel free to disagree with me anytime.  :grinyes:
IMO, the cooling hose will only collapse if you have other cooling system problems and a spring takes up space in the hose reducing space for the coolant, causing a flow restriction. :2cents:

Thought that the hose collapses at high rpm, when suction pressure is highest, and mainly due to hose being
old and weak.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #39 on: October 05, 2014 - 06:26:56 AM »
Sorry to disagree but the spring does not restrict the flow of water it is there to stop the hose collapsing and a good thing to have.   :bigsmile:
Thought that the hose collapses at high rpm, when suction pressure is highest, and mainly due to hose being
old and weak.
  The only time I have seen a bottom hose collapse is when the one way valve in the radiator cap sticks after the motor cools down and there is a vacuum inside the system. I have run many cars on chassis dynos and never seen the hose collapse, the engine water pumps are just not that efficient.
  Glad to here you got everything working satisfactorily now, generally the thermostat isn't fully open at the temperature stamped on them and they are not just open or closed but quite often sitting somewhere between.
think you wanna have your fan 1/2 inch from radiator too.
  Fan needs to be this close only when not running a shroud, he is running a shroud and is placed correctly half in the opening to the shroud.
Dave

Offline brads70

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #40 on: October 05, 2014 - 08:27:42 AM »
    Fan needs to be this close only when not running a shroud, he is running a shroud and is placed correctly half in the opening to the shroud.
Just curious/learning..... what happens if the fan is close to the rad AND your using a shroud? I ask as this will likely be what I end up with?
Thanks Brad
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #41 on: October 05, 2014 - 12:44:24 PM »
as long as the fan blades are in line with the opening on the shroud the air has to go through the fan to move , if the fan is too deep the shroud will be less effective

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline brads70

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #42 on: October 05, 2014 - 01:03:53 PM »
as long as the fan blades are in line with the opening on the shroud the air has to go through the fan to move , if the fan is too deep the shroud will be less effective

Hummm Ok thanks. Now I'm wondering if I should bother with a shroud? :-\
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: Bottom radiator hose question
« Reply #43 on: October 05, 2014 - 07:02:59 PM »
Hummm Ok thanks. Now I'm wondering if I should bother with a shroud? :-\
If you are traveling in traffic stop start then definitely a shroud, if out on the highway most of the time then not needed.
Me I will always run a shroud it is good insurance and will keep the fan as far away from the radiator as possible, that is half in half out.   :2cents:
Dave