Oil Pan

[74 challenge]

I have been posting a lot about chasing leaks and well...I'M STILL CHASING LEAKS 

I am going to replace the oil pan since it's clearly been butchered enough, who makes the best OEM replacement? it's a 318, I also need the mounting hardware if you can shed any light that would be awesome.

[dfrazz]

Have you tried a dye test with an ultraviolet light to see where the leak is coming from? 

[74 challenge]

Have you tried a dye test with an ultraviolet light to see where the leak is coming from?

I brought it to a mechanic that has built countless engines for family and friends, fixes classics all the time and he ran the car while up on a hoist I could easily see oil comming off both the oil pan and off the bell housing. This was of course after we cleaned it all off.

I am not a patien person I am tired of trying to diagnose, I am just gonig to change everything.

So far I have bought new oil pan gasket, new oil pump, new rear main seal, oil filter, distributor gasket and just need advise on what oil pan is the best and I am going to move past this problem. I have a thousand other things to worry about. If this does not fix the problem I am going to pay someone to fix it.

[dfrazz]

I completely understand.  I chased oil leaks on my other engine and never did find the problem until I did a dye test.  It sounds like you need a oil pan for sure, but the leak could also be coming from the oil sending unit or a plug that you can not see unless you pull the tranny.  For the pan, I would use a new 5 qt from Roseville as Dave will give you a forum discount.  http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/small-block-a-engine-273-318-340-360/oiling-/p/oil-pan-5-quart-rear-sump-273-318-340-small-block/cPath/182_192/products_id/4563

What type of gasket did you get?  I have had leaking issues with the high price 1 piece rubber before, so I would not use one of those.

[74 challenge]

I completely understand.  I chased oil leaks on my other engine and never did find the problem until I did a dye test.  It sounds like you need a oil pan for sure, but the leak could also be coming from the oil sending unit or a plug that you can not see unless you pull the tranny.  For the pan, I would use a new 5 qt from Roseville as Dave will give you a forum discount.  http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/small-block-a-engine-273-318-340-360/oiling-/p/oil-pan-5-quart-rear-sump-273-318-340-small-block/cPath/182_192/products_id/4563

What type of gasket did you get?  I have had leaking issues with the high price 1 piece rubber before, so I would not use one of those.

I am on my third gasket I have tried a Mr. Gasket one that failed, so i tried one from the dealer, I am currently running a Rubber coated fiber gasket someone on here suggested and it's leaking so i'm on to Fel-pro now. However having gone through so many gaskets It's clear in my eyes the issue is not the gasket. I have only ever used the multi-peice gaskets (the ends are sperate from the sides)

I have actually taken out my mechanical oil guage that connected in where the oil sending unit was and capped it so it's not leaking anymore so any oil from the top of the black is either from the intake manifold or the distributor.

[74 challenge]

also did dodge use those little metal things that distributed the load of the oil pan bolts along the entire surface of the pan's mating surface?

like these chevy ones? http://www.jegs.com/i/Hamburgers/497/1178/10002/-1?parentProductId=832538

[dfrazz]

I am on my third gasket I have tried a Mr. Gasket one that failed, so i tried one from the dealer, I am currently running a Rubber coated fiber gasket someone on here suggested and it's leaking so i'm on to Fel-pro now. However having gone through so many gaskets It's clear in my eyes the issue is not the gasket. I have only ever used the multi-peice gaskets (the ends are sperate from the sides)

I have actually taken out my mechanical oil guage that connected in where the oil sending unit was and capped it so it's not leaking anymore so any oil from the top of the black is either from the intake manifold or the distributor.

I assume you also checked the back of the valve covers and your PCV valve.

[74 challenge]

I assume you also checked the back of the valve covers and your PCV valve.

new valve cover gaskets and they are bone dry. Put them on a couple of months ago and took care of that leak, the PCV valve is not leaking the breather on the otherside puts out a drip every 3 or 4 drives but nothing compared to the half a quart on my floor after every drive. I Cleaned the car at the mechanics yesterday and it was oily from the bellhousing to the driveshaft after my 15 mile drive home. Definately Engine oil I fixed all the trans leaks after someone on here (Burdar maybee?) gave me a list of possible trans leaks and it turned out it was just an sensor that was lose.

My mission this year was to stop as many leaks as possible, I no longer leak anything else just oil but it's getting worse and quickly. I am really more concerned about keeping my beautifully epoxied garage floor in mint condition.

[Rob C]

I have a new never used or mounted 318/340 oil pan. PM me if yo want it.

[74 challenge]

I have a new never used or mounted 318/340 oil pan. PM me if yo want it.

Where are you located? I'm in Canada so unless you are near me the price of shipping would be pretty bad.

[Mopar Mitch]

I used to be Fel-Pro gasket engineer for the aftermarket for over 20 years (38 yrs total in the industry) and have tons of experience with gaskets.  Leakage is often allowed by the bolt holes being deformed/overcompressed in the sheet metal pan... so, flatten them or replace the pan.. and, tap.clean the block's oil pan bolt hole threadings, as well as clean the small bolts.  Also, avoid excessive application of RTV.. use it ONLY at the 4 intersecting corners... just a small dab.   NEVER apply RTV all across a rubber gasket... you'd be better of applying grease so to allow the rubber gasket/seal to spli and fail more quickly!   You might have to replace the rear main crankshaft seal and the front timing cover seal if they are leaking.... and... synthetic oil will find leaks quicker/easier than non-synthetics.   Die-cut side rail gaskets of rubber allow less conformability/flatness forgiveness (~30%), as compared to cork-rubber (~50%).   Molded rubber side-rail gaskets allow leakage more easily overall since they just can't conform well to distortion of the pan.   Flatness of the pan is most crucial!   The side rail gaskets can be attached with a quick-drying contact adhesive (NOT RTV!).

[1 Wild R/T]

I used to be Fel-Pro gasket engineer for the aftermarket for over 20 years (38 yrs total in the industry) and have tons of experience with gaskets.  Leakage is often allowed by the bolt holes being deformed/overcompressed in the sheet metal pan... so, flatten them or replace the pan.. and, tap.clean the block's oil pan bolt hole threadings, as well as clean the small bolts.  Also, avoid excessive application of RTV.. use it ONLY at the 4 intersecting corners... just a small dab.   NEVER apply RTV all across a rubber gasket... you'd be better of applying grease so to allow the rubber gasket/seal to spli and fail more quickly!   You might have to replace the rear main crankshaft seal and the front timing cover seal if they are leaking.... and... synthetic oil will find leaks quicker/easier than non-synthetics.   Die-cut side rail gaskets of rubber allow less conformability/flatness forgiveness (~30%), as compared to cork-rubber (~50%).   Molded rubber side-rail gaskets allow leakage more easily overall since they just can't conform well to distortion of the pan.   Flatness of the pan is most crucial!   The side rail gaskets can be attached with a quick-drying contact adhesive (NOT RTV!).

Geez Mitch, to make it to easy for him, let him figure it out the hard way like the rest of us....   

Seriously though good advise, oil leaks can truly be a PITA.. Technology has improved so modern cars rarely leak & we now expect the same for vintage cars, unfortunately there are no cut grooves for formed "O" ring style gaskets on these old cars so careful gasket selection, straight engine tin, proper sealants & proper torque are all pieces of the puzzle...

[Mopar Mitch]

If a thick-flange oil pan, perhaps cast aluminum, were available, that would cure most oil leak problems from using stamped steel pans.   another option, although I don't believe it's available for our Mopar SB (and BB?) pans, is to use additional side rail flanges to "spread the load" over the length of the rail, as well as to prevent distortion of the rail flange at each bolt hole from each bolt... GMs often gave this available.    Then, there is the option ($$) of having load clamp limiters at each bolt hole of the gasket, but.. IF the pan flange is not near perfectly flat, it won't matter... and oil seepage will still occur.

[dfrazz]

Anyone install studs in the holes instead of bolts through the pan?  Heard that may help too.

[stinger]

I just recently replaced my pan on my 440 and used oil pan studs,so far not a single leak.