Fast idle to keep headlights from dimming ?

[Racer57]

In order to keep my headlights from dimming far more than is comfortable when I have the clutch in at stop lights my idle is set probably 100rpm more than it should be. The tach shows 900 but not sure if it can be trusted. It sounds like a little more than that. The alternator has the small pulley and is working perfectly and the battery is new. If I remember correctly these cars were bad about that.

 Is there a fix ?

[moparman82]

absolutely, upgrade that alternator with a 1 wire style!  lots of memebers have done it, if I rememeber correctly, brad may even have a wiring diagram for the swap

[Chryco Psycho]

Doesn't have to be a 1 wire system , just going to a more modern alternator like the Denso unit will work , Mancini , 440 Source & others carry the denso with brackets . I f the output is higher than 60 amp I would recommend installing a bypass for mt he alt output to the battery terminal on the start relay though . the other "trick" is to install relays so all of the power for the headlights is shunted direct from the start relay to the headlight as all modern cars do bypassing the ammeter , bulkhead plugs in & out & the headlight switch , this way the headlight switch just triggers the relay sending power to the headlights directly .

[burdar]

Definitely add relays. You can source your own parts or buy a kit like I did. You can mount the relays under the battery tray to hide them if you want.

[Racer57]

Is this what I want for my 1970  383 ?

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabenalkit.html

[dodj]

Doesn't have to be a 1 wire system , just going to a more modern alternator like the Denso unit will work , Mancini , 440 Source & others carry the denso with brackets . I f the output is higher than 60 amp I would recommend installing a bypass for mt he alt output to the battery terminal on the start relay though . the other "trick" is to install relays so all of the power for the headlights is shunted direct from the start relay to the headlight as all modern cars do bypassing the ammeter , bulkhead plugs in & out & the headlight switch , this way the headlight switch just triggers the relay sending power to the headlights directly .

The lights dimming isn't caused only by the alternator. the multiple connections of the headlight cct drop voltage before the power gets to your lights. With the relays you will notice them brighter at cruising speed too.

[Racer57]

Ok guys, you keep talking about relays. What do I need and how do I install them. 

[dodj]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

The above link pretty much explains it. The idea is to route power directly to your headlights from the alt/battery circuit instead of going through the bulkhead connector and having high current running through the interior b4 it gets to your lights.

[dodj]

I mounted my relays beside the rad in plain view for easy maintenance. Others have hidden them under the battery tray etc.

[burdar]

There is a member over on FABO that is making kits.  If you want his contact info let me know.  His kits are completely plug and play.  There is no cutting of the original harness.  For what you get, I think they are priced right.

[Racer57]

There is a member over on FABO that is making kits.  If you want his contact info let me know.  His kits are completely plug and play.  There is no cutting of the original harness.  For what you get, I think they are priced right.

I think this is what I need. The simpler the better so that I don't burn up the whole damn car !! Please give me his info.

Thanks !

[burdar]

Here is his thread on FABO.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514

[Racer57]

Here is his thread on FABO.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514

Thanks. I sent him a PM.

[larry4406]

Burdar - thanks for the fabo link. With that kit is the factory ammeter still functional?

[Cudaragtop]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

The above link pretty much explains it. The idea is to route power directly to your headlights from the alt/battery circuit instead of going through the bulkhead connector and having high current running through the interior b4 it gets to your lights.

Thanks for posting the link.