Fast idle to keep headlights from dimming ?

[72bluNblu]

Burdar - thanks for the fabo link. With that kit is the factory ammeter still functional?

Yes, the stock ammeter is left alone. It just pulls power for the headlights through a relay, so that load is removed from the under dash wiring and the bulkhead connector. Most people find that the rest of their lights are brighter as well (dash, tails etc). It also removes that load from the headlight switch, which helps with the interior lights.  I have one of crackedback's kits on the way for my Duster, although I'll probably get one for my Challenger as well.

But the stock ammeter isn't the greatest thing either. I run a 100 amp alternator on my Duster so its more of an issue. I also just finished converting my ammeter to a voltmeter, you can check out this thread over on FABO.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=voltmeter+conversion

I think it should work with a rally gauge for an E-body as well, and the non-rallye version would be even easier with the sunpro gauge. That allows you to do a bypass on the ammeter, and you can make a better connection through the bulkhead connector as well. This link shows the full ammeter bypass.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

With those mods, your electrical system will be a lot more efficient, and as a bonus will be less likely to fail or burst into flames. 

[dodj]

With those mods, your electrical system will be a lot more efficient, and as a bonus will be less likely to fail or burst into flames. 

A friend of mine had his 71 340 'cuda burn to charcoal because of the amp gauge. 

[Adam]

I used Daniel Stern's headlight upgrades, it made a huge difference.  I hid the relays behind the front headlights of my 71 Challenger.  Here is a link: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

[Racer57]

Problem solved. I can now set my idle where it should be.

 I purchased this relay setup and like it very much. My wires were made to the lengths that I wanted and everything was very professionally done. There is still a slight difference with my stock alternator but nothing anywhere near what it use to be.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514

[Oldschool]

Glad you got it solved..  I am a little late to this party, but back in the day on my old cars, I just put a smaller pulley on the alternator and a shorter belt. The smaller pulley made the alternator spin faster for any given crankshaft speed. I just sped up the alternator without speeding up the engine rpm or changing a bunch of wiring and relays....   

[ShelbyDogg]

I went through my 5 alternators on my shelf and installed each one and wrote down the voltages at idle. I only had one that would put out  a constant 14.5v at idle with all of my brights and brake lights on. I have a fuel injection on my cars too so this added to the load.

I left my good alternator installed, but it also shot craps in the middle of the Power tour in June, so I'm back to a square-back, 78 amp unit that drops voltage when sitting at a stoplight with my blinker on.

I'm looking at a 2003-2008 Toyota 4-runner ND unit that puts out 130 Amps. All of these Denso units on my Hondas never, ever dimmed at idle.

Here is a link from Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=729563_0_0_

The Part number is 13994 if the link doesn't work.

You can get the dual drive pulley off of the junkyard Mopar engines using the same style alternator, but those are only rated at 75 amps and the charging stud sticks out of the back and hits the head.