Torsion bar fitment

[Priesty]

Hi guys,
Just received my new torsion bars & preparing to reassemble whole front end. I know the torsion bars are marked LH & RH, is there a front & back, or does it not matter which way they go in ?
Sorry if it's a stupid question, just don't want to get it all back together & have to pull it apart again.

cheers......

[blown motor]

Don't forget the boots and don't ask me how I know that 

[brads70]

No front and back , just left and right. 

[Chryco Psycho]

drop the lower control arm to full drop to line up the sockets , I usually coat the end with grease so they do not rust in & if there is a 3 digit part # on the end I leave that showing so you can tell later exactly what bar is in there without pulling them

[72bluNblu]

drop the lower control arm to full drop to line up the sockets , I usually coat the end with grease so they do not rust in & if there is a 3 digit part # on the end I leave that showing so you can tell later exactly what bar is in there without pulling them

Exactly! If there's a part number on one end, leave that end showing. Makes life a lot easier later if you forget what you've got. If it doesn't have a part # (some aftermarket bars don't), leave the "L" and "R" stamping showing. Again, just for piece of mind later.

[crash340]

what bars did you go with Priesty

[Priesty]

Bought some .92" bars as my LH original .89"? was bent. Also bought a Borgeson strg box & bergman adaptor kit for the coupling. After I had the strg box out I got a nasty surprise, when I looked at the frame rail there was a very dodgy rust repair job, spent last 3 days fixing it & some other parts on the frame rail. Ready to all go back together now though. All new BJ's & control arm bushes as well.

Thanks for advice on the torsion bars guys will do as you suggest.

[brads70]

Bought some .92" bars as my LH original .89"? was bent. Also bought a Borgeson strg box & bergman adaptor kit for the coupling. After I had the strg box out I got a nasty surprise, when I looked at the frame rail there was a very dodgy rust repair job, spent last 3 days fixing it & some other parts on the frame rail. Ready to all go back together now though. All new BJ's & control arm bushes as well.

Thanks for advice on the torsion bars guys will do as you suggest.

Might want to have a read....? http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=8128289&an=0&page=0#Post8128289
Some people are into a nightmare with those steering boxes? Some seem ok , ..... some not!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Don't forget the boots and don't ask me how I know that 

[Priesty]

Finally got torsion bars in & Borgeson box fitted up. Only small amount of grinding on rear of housing & one spacer washer to make it fit. No problems with pitman fit on the spline at all (small 1 1/8 shaft).
Biggest PITA was the coupler rebuild.
Is there a trick to clamping that seal retainer on properly ? I can't seem to get it on snug.
Otherwise all good, steering already feels more responsive, although not back on the ground yet.

[Chryco Psycho]

Never easy , I bend the lock tabs first & snap it on , never was able to get ti tight once it is on

[74 challenge]

Never easy , I bend the lock tabs first & snap it on , never was able to get ti tight once it is on

This just changed my life, mine was always coming off.

[burdar]

I used a hole saw to make a hole in a piece of 1x6.  I slid the steering shaft through the hole and then assembled the coupler.  I used another 1x6 on the bottom of the coupler which gave me something to clamp against.  With the retainer clamped in place, I just bent the tabs with a punch.  Obviously I didn't have my steering column assembled yet.  If you went this route, you'd have to cut the 1x6 off of the steering shaft.

There is an updated coupler seal that I was tempted to buy.  It does away with the metal retainer.  The updated seal is $25 though.