Author Topic: Time for a build thread - 5.7 Hemi, T56 (Read 12881 times)

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #15 on:** September 27, 2014 - 08:30:44 PM »

I have everything that will unbolt, unbolted from the engine bay. The wiring up to the rear harness is out and I'll work on removing the dash, perhaps tomorrow.

Driver's side floor is the most holy panel inside and will likely get a full replacement.

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #16 on:** September 28, 2014 - 08:22:37 PM »

More frequent updates will be posted here

https://www.facebook.com/GoodysGotaHemi

Bullitt- · « **Reply #17 on:** September 28, 2014 - 08:39:28 PM »

Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on September 28, 2014 - 08:22:37 PM

More frequent updates will be posted here

https://www.facebook.com/GoodysGotaHemi

Excellent...I'll be following. Glad your keeping the B'cuda

anlauto · « **Reply #18 on:** September 28, 2014 - 09:22:02 PM »

I think you need to strip and restore the entire car. I think if you spend time and money only fixing the immediate problems and upgrading the drivetrain, that money will be wasted if the rest of the car only looks "okay"...You'll never be happy with the areas left un-touched in my opinion.

AZkcar135 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 30, 2014 - 09:11:14 PM »

Cool looking project!!! I want to put one in mine, but I want to go with a different trans. One from a dakota with a lock up converter.

Here's some links I've found during my research;

http://www.thehemi.com/data/5.7L_Hemi_ABE_Installation_Kits.pdf

http://www.newhemiswap.com/E-Body-DIY.pdf

Topcat · « **Reply #20 on:** September 30, 2014 - 10:11:15 PM »

Quote from: anlauto on September 28, 2014 - 09:22:02 PM

I think you need to strip and restore the entire car. I think if you spend time and money only fixing the immediate problems and upgrading the drivetrain, that money will be wasted if the rest of the car only looks "okay"...You'll never be happy with the areas left un-touched in my opinion.

It's the car you both met.
Rotisserie and be done once and right.

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #21 on:** October 01, 2014 - 02:37:19 PM »

With the odds of me moving in the next two years like they are, I've decided to not put myself in a situation where the car will be a problem to transport. I will make it structurally sound and get it back on the road rather than take on more than I know I can handle at this time.

A drivetrain swap and fixing up a few sections is easy for me to handle right now, rotisserie resto is definitely not. That's the decision on the cars immediate future.

At 27, I have time to get back into the car again, even when some areas get worse later, now is not the time to do it for me. Having the expense of the drivetrain out of the way will at least make it easier to fund later. Perhaps it's not the most popular direction to take, but that is what I have decided to do. The car is worthless to anyone else and will remain a headache-lost-project if it stays in a disassembled state and we need to move, have a kid, or whatever else may happen..

calicuda70 · « **Reply #22 on:** October 01, 2014 - 03:36:57 PM »

Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on October 01, 2014 - 02:37:19 PM

With the odds of me moving in the next two years like they are, I've decided to not put myself in a situation where the car will be a problem to transport. I will make it structurally sound and get it back on the road rather than take on more than I know I can handle at this time.

A drivetrain swap and fixing up a few sections is easy for me to handle right now, rotisserie resto is definitely not. That's the decision on the cars immediate future.

At 27, I have time to get back into the car again, even when some areas get worse later, now is not the time to do it for me. Having the expense of the drivetrain out of the way will at least make it easier to fund later. Perhaps it's not the most popular direction to take, but that is what I have decided to do. The car is worthless to anyone else and will remain a headache-lost-project if it stays in a disassembled state and we need to move, have a kid, or whatever else may happen..

couldnt agree with you more man, im 28 and i can honestly say i used to have nothing but time to work on my challenger bought a cuda at 26 and had a kid this march and whoa let me tell you life gets busy when they come mine is on the way back burner and just saving for parts now.

1 Wild R/T · « **Reply #23 on:** October 01, 2014 - 03:41:04 PM »

Wise choice IMO.. Make it solid & safe, fast & fun & have fun with it rather than build a show poodle you need to worry about constantly... I've done the super resto thing, still have the car but now that it's been done for close to 20 years I am enjoying it more cause I worry less... Still care that nothing bad happens but don't stress it so much...

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #24 on:** October 05, 2014 - 12:20:00 PM »

Throwing around some fuel control ideas..

A 5.7L Hemi is going into my car [with the potential for "light boost" down the road] as well as some autocross and/or road course time. I would like to get away from a external surge tank and keep my fuel control within the "stock" gas tank.

For starters, I am looking to pickup a TanksInc fuel pump module with a Walbro 400lp/h pump [$295, they claim up to 900hp, for the extra $60 I'll take the flow potential]. I would also be buying the TanksInc recess mount [10"x7"x2"] to give me some room between the trunk floor and the top of the tank.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/p...prod/prd370.htm

[image]http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_84.jpg[/image][image]http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_370.jpg[/image]

I have an Autometer fuel gauge that has never read right with the stock sending unit. The gauge also oscillates with the sloshing of the fuel, which is annoying. To combat that problem and work with internal baffling, a vertical "no slosh" style sending unit would be used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290183/media/instructions

So I did some very rough dimensioning of the stock tank and guesstimating the other parts to throw together a visual of what I'd like to setup. With the 10"x7" hole in the tank I have a nice amount of room to stick some baffling and an internal surge tank. The box around the fuel pickup shown is 10x8x6 [~2gal]. The 1.5x1.5 squares in the bottom would be filled with flat hinges to help control the direction of the fuel.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1624a61/=u0r6vx

[image]http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/16175a12p1-h02dl.png[/image]

My out-of-pocket for this setup would be approx $450 and it should support pretty decent power. I have -6 alum line from the tank to the engine compartment that I would be using already, along with a GM filter/regulator assembly.

moprr · « **Reply #25 on:** October 05, 2014 - 12:57:58 PM »

I bought that tanks pump but have not installed it yet. When I spoke with them they said the small reservoir is enough and you shouldn't need baffling. They told me they sold many to people who just throw them in stock tanks and have no issues.

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #26 on:** October 05, 2014 - 01:37:40 PM »

Quote from: moprr on October 05, 2014 - 12:57:58 PM

I bought that tanks pump but have not installed it yet. When I spoke with them they said the small reservoir is enough and you shouldn't need baffling. They told me they sold many to people who just throw them in stock tanks and have no issues.

There are lots and lots of variables when it comes to that, was that in reference to street driving or high lateral g/lots of direction changes?

With how the factory tank appears, I don't think it'd be very difficult for to starve that little reservoir out with a hard corner and a bump in the track. ~400hp engine will gobble that pint of fuel up rather quickly. I bet it'd be fine for spirited driving on the street, but I don't think I'd be comfortable with it feeding a boosted application [long-term plan] on a course as a drop-in.

Travis72 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 12, 2014 - 10:29:09 PM »

Seems like a solid plan. Just a couple suggestion based on what I went through. I had problems with my Walbro so I ended up switching to a DeatschWerks pump. As a plus its much quieter:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWqEp43gXTI

Be aware that there have been a lot of counterfeit Walbro's on the market, so be sure and only buy it from a reputable source.

Good choice on the sending unit, that style worked much better than a swing arm one in my car.

If you're going to cut open the tank for your own baffling anyway, you might want to consider running dual corner fuel pickups:

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html

It's what they use in the VaporWorx tanks:

http://vaporworx.com/corner_pickups_and_fuel_transfer.htm

One final suggestion, for the Corvette FPR the Aeromotive fittings are expensive but they are supposed to be much better and leak free compared to the cheaper Russell or other brands. I originally had Swagelock fittings but ended up swapping to the Aeromotive ones. These are the 2 you need for the Corvette FPR.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15117

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15118

Travis
72 Cuda

GoodysGotaCuda · « **Reply #28 on:** October 12, 2014 - 10:35:35 PM »

Thanks Travis.

Within the next couple of weeks I'll probably put an order in for a junkyard gen5 Camaro pump with the vaporworx gen4 fpr.

With the module retaining fuel and some basic baffling, I didn't think the added expense [~$150] for the corner pickups will be necessary.

360FISH · « **Reply #29 on:** October 12, 2014 - 10:44:08 PM »

Really looking forward to following

this build...

Enjoy it!

Author Topic: Time for a build thread - 5.7 Hemi, T56 (Read 12881 times)

GoodysGotaCuda

Re: Time for a build thread - 5.7 Hemi, T56

GoodysGotaCuda

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Bullitt-

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anlauto

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AZkcar135

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Topcat

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GoodysGotaCuda

Time for a build thread - 5.7 Hemi, T56

calicuda70

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1 Wild R/T

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GoodysGotaCuda

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moprr

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GoodysGotaCuda

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Travis72

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GoodysGotaCuda

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360FISH

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