Author Topic: tuning my 360  (Read 931 times)

Offline Scat Pack Fever

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tuning my 360
« on: October 06, 2014 - 08:04:33 PM »
Hello All,

I was fed up with tuning my engine til tonight. The engine shook, backfired through the carb when I tried to drive it, and ran very rich. The Vaccume gauge shook back and forth between 14 and 15 in the yellow. I was timing it with a very old timing light timing it to tdc. Tonight I got fed up and loosened the bolt that holds down the distributor and turned the distributer until the engine ran faster and smoother. I then adjusted the idle mixture screws and now it holds a steady 25 on the gauge. I put it in 1st gear, let off the clutch and took off with no issues. It didnt hesitate at all. the engine idles real smooth and no longer shakes. I back all the way off the idler screw on the carb. It still runs a little rich though and I do see a little smoke coming out of both exhaust.

I never drive the thing and have been trying to work on it for quite some time running rich and out of time. I am wondering if the engine has a lot of carbon built up from running rich and not being driven. Could this be why it still runs a little rich? Is there anything I can put in my tank to clean out the combustion chamber? maybe clean the plugs?

Thanks

 




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: tuning my 360
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2014 - 09:01:45 PM »
Cool , this is why I threw out my timing light
 One of the best ways to clean the chambers is with a hose , steam it out , just run the rpm up & run a small stream of water into the carb . There are a number of circuits in the carb that can be adjusted , it could be idle , jetting , power valve , accelerator pump , float level , choke , any of these could be causing a rich condition

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Offline jimynick

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Re: tuning my 360
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2014 - 09:26:14 PM »
The old school way was to feed the hot and up to temperature engine about a pint of trans fluid (GM made a dedicated product called Kleens) at a fast idle (1500-2000 rpm) and then let her shut off. Wait for 15-20 minutes and start 'er up. At the same rpm feed her, slowly, about a quart of cold water and rev'er up and down. Do this when your wife and neighbours aren't doing wash or having a garden party and it will also keep the 'skeeters down for quite a while. It's not uncommon for chunks of crud to be spat out the tailpipes. I've seen it completely cure a carbon knock that sounded just like a rod. Remember to take it easy pouring the water in, since it doesn't compress well- just sayin'. Good luck

Offline cudabob496

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Re: tuning my 360
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2014 - 09:56:18 PM »
maybe just a leaking/blown power valve. Supposedly, if you close all the idle adjust screws,
and it does not turn off engine, then its a leaking power valve.
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Offline Scat Pack Fever

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Re: tuning my 360
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2014 - 10:23:00 PM »
Cool , this is why I threw out my timing light
 One of the best ways to clean the chambers is with a hose , steam it out , just run the rpm up & run a small stream of water into the carb . There are a number of circuits in the carb that can be adjusted , it could be idle , jetting , power valve , accelerator pump , float level , choke , any of these could be causing a rich condition

It's an eddy carb. The choke isn't hooked up at all. it's wide open. Does it have to be closed a little even if its at full running temp.? You can run water directly into the carb? I'll try it. Seems like it would make the engine die

Offline jhaag

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Re: tuning my 360
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2014 - 10:35:50 PM »
closing choke would only make it richer, keep it wide open. yes you can run water through, just do it slowly, use a spray bottle or a squirt bottle with a small opening. obviously if it dies you are giving it too much. run the motor at a fast idle maybe around 1500 rpm, while doing this. (I would just put some seafoam in the tank and take it out and run the crap out of it if it was mine, and forget the other stuff)  :2cents:
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