Car won't crank with key

[Yellow Submarine]

So today I fired up my 383 for the first time in a while. When I got it it was jury wired in order to run short distances like on and off the transporter. I assembled the new under-hood wiring harness so the lights work, the key in ign with door open work and once started it keeps running more or less. The only way to crank it is using a remote trigger and that was the case when I first got it.
Is this indicative of a bad ignition switch , bad starter relay or something else?

John

[Chryco Psycho]

Could be a lot of things , start switch or relay or wiring connections

[Yellow Submarine]

Is there a simple way to troubleshoot?

[Bullitt-]

Could be a bad connection anywhere from the ignition switch to the start relay

as well as

bad connection on neutral safety switch
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=101240.msg997622#msg997622

bad ignition switch
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=88338.msg879467#msg879467

Yellow wire provides voltage from ignition switch in start position, brown wire provides ground from neutral safely switch on auto tranny or from clutch pedal on manual.
Issues are usually bad connections at the bulkhead connector at firewall or on the large flat connector from the steering column/ignition switch. If not getting power on the yellow wire trace it back to find disconnect. If yellow wire has power check that your getting ground through the brown wire.

[anlauto]

Is the green wire on the starter relay grounded ?

[Bullitt-]

Is the green wire on the starter relay grounded ?

There is no green wire, ground comes from the brown wire to NSS switch or Clutch switch.

[anlauto]

There is no green wire, ground comes from the brown wire to NSS switch or Clutch switch.

What year is this car ? In all the cars I've worked on that wire has been green. Either way, it needs to be grounded.

[Bullitt-]

What year is this car ? In all the cars I've worked on that wire has been green. Either way, it needs to be grounded.

'70 & '71 used a green wire on manual tranny to clutch switch...brown for automatic...later models don't show green wire only brown
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChallengerA.JPG

[dodj]

I would start with grounding the start relay. Using the pic supplied by bullitt, remove the safety interlock wire and ground that spade lug on the relay. Try to start. If it cranks, it is your nss or wiring to and from it. If you don't get any cranking, check the yellow wire (labelled ignition in pic) with your buddy holding the key in the start position. Should have battery voltage.
If you have voltage and you have the other lug still grounded, and no cranking, you have a bad relay.
If you don't have the 12vdc on the yellow wire, could be bulkhead connector, column connector, or ign sw. Probably one of the connectors though.

[Yellow Submarine]

Thank you very much. There is no brown ground wire at all. It is a 70 with auto trans. I'll try grounding it as a first step.
Where does the brown wire originate from, the trans, the floor shifter or somewhere else. Another one of those missing bits and pieces. Also getting a new battery. This one runs down very quickly.
Then on to a leaky front drum brake. Then hopefully get it out of the garage and drive it.

John

[Bullitt-]

neutral safety switch on drivers side of transmission,,,item with wires

[Yellow Submarine]

 Thanks Bullitt. I'll crawl under and see what is missing. Got a new battery today and put a temporary ground to the starter solenoid. We'll see if it works.

John

[Yellow Submarine]

Ok putting a ground wire in for the starter relay fixes that for now. I will put a proper nss circuit later.
Next problem is the engine starts reasonably easily but won't continue to run without me pumping the accelerator pedal like crazy. If I stop the engine does also. Even when I do pump the accelerator it won't run longer than about 15-20 seconds.
I have about 4 gallons of gas in a new gas tank. When I replaced it I cleaned out the fuel pickup tube. I also flushed clean gas through the fuel line and put a new filter in place.
Between start ups I squirt about 50 cc's of fuel into the vent on the carb or it won't start. Have also tried starting fluid which makes it catch a little quicker.
I have connected or plugged off all vac lines I can find. The choke is closed. The previous owned had just set new points and had the car running well enough to drive it onto the car hauler.
What am I missing??

John

[Bullitt-]

Choke needs to open a tad soon as the engine fires. OE carbs have a vacuum pull off, some aftermarket use an electric choke that has to get power to open.
When having issues I've put like a large clip in the airhorn to keep the choke open slightly.  Also make sure your accelerator pump is squirting fuel, those do go bad with age. 

[Yellow Submarine]

Ok Bullitt will give it a try tomorrow

John