Author Topic: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount  (Read 3060 times)

Offline flagcraig

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 195
Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« on: October 17, 2014 - 11:29:33 AM »
340 Challenger 1972 with stroker to 416.  Am replacing original motor mounts.  Would prefer to just replace same way as originals....bolt on and go.  Don't know anything about the solid steel motor mount.  Like the MAG mounts I see at Mancini.
Any help or suggestions.

Thanks.




Offline jhaag

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 616
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2014 - 12:09:29 PM »
solid motor mounts will transmit engine vibrations to the chassis that you will feel in the car. If you go with a solid mount you really only need the drivers side as the motor is tourqeing in that direction. there are other styles. mounts with rubber inserts but locking tabs inside in case of failure. another option is stock rubber mounts with and a separate torque strap. depends on what you want to do. is it a 4 speed? do you drive it hard?
love 70 Challengers

Offline ToxicWolf

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2416
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2014 - 12:21:25 PM »
I'm going with these.  Just ordered them yesterday.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

Offline dfrazz

  • 1970 Cuda - 1968 Charger
  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4070
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2014 - 12:22:31 PM »
I went with the Mancini MAG motor mounts, very happy with them.   I have heard the steel and poly-locs cause severe vibration throughout the car.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4594
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2014 - 01:10:57 PM »
I went with the Mancini MAG motor mounts, very happy with them.   I have heard the steel and poly-locs cause severe vibration throughout the car.

I ran a solid drivers side mount for many years, the vibration is pretty minimal... Then again my engines were always balanced & well tuned...
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline flagcraig

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 195
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2014 - 01:18:11 PM »
I went with the Mancini MAG motor mounts, very happy with them.   I have heard the steel and poly-locs cause severe vibration throughout the car.
Height wise on the MAG Motor Mounts is there a difference vs stock or others?  I wanted to go with Edelbrock Air Gap and Holley carb to fit under R/T style hood.
Thanks.

Offline dfrazz

  • 1970 Cuda - 1968 Charger
  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4070
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2014 - 02:37:28 PM »
Height wise on the MAG Motor Mounts is there a difference vs stock or others?  I wanted to go with Edelbrock Air Gap and Holley carb to fit under R/T style hood.
Thanks.

No difference in height.  I had an Air Gap and a QFT carb with bulge R/T hood and had no clearance issues.  They have the bolt all the way through on the drivers side to improve the firmness.  My 408 stroker has 500 TQ and they held the engine in perfect.

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2014 - 05:42:22 PM »
use stock mounts, and install a torque strap.
Have this setup on my 496 for 14 years.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2014 - 08:48:43 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6197
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2014 - 07:50:22 PM »
I installed the mag mounts after tearing a stock mount. I like them. Highly recommend. :2thumbs:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 9341
  • Miss NIKKI - were you this hot at 48?
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2014 - 10:44:10 PM »
I've been running Schu's for awhile I don't think I have vibration issues even w a HEMI. MOPAR FANATIC went for a ride.. Dave what 'cha think?  :dunno:
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/A-D-Truck-and-Auto-Parts/67427352555?ref=hl

Offline Denison636

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 352
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2015 - 02:48:33 AM »
A old hotrodder trick got showed to me on stock motor mounts that works great. I drill a hole threw them then get a 3/8" bolt with a polly lock nut. I put the bolt threw both plates of the motor mount. I then sung the bolt. This way you have both worlds. You will have a rubber mount for idle then when you step into it the bolt will catch and act like a solid. Been doing this for many years and have never had a issue. It also looks better then a chain or shock hanging off the motor.
Its just a little 340 with a miss

Offline 734406pk

  • Andy
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1716
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2015 - 10:46:58 AM »
The solid mounts are strong an cheap but the noise transmitting is terrible. Ok if your wearing a helmet. Mag mounts work great but are not cheap. Stock isolators with a torque strap has been used for years. I like the Denison636 bolt thru method, that's a neat trick! No strap in the way!
A old hotrodder trick got showed to me on stock motor mounts that works great. I drill a hole threw them then get a 3/8" bolt with a polly lock nut. I put the bolt threw both plates of the motor mount. I then sung the bolt. This way you have both worlds. You will have a rubber mount for idle then when you step into it the bolt will catch and act like a solid. Been doing this for many years and have never had a issue. It also looks better then a chain or shock hanging off the motor.
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6197
Re: Solid Steel Motor Mount vs MAG Motor Mount
« Reply #12 on: January 09, 2015 - 02:32:39 PM »
A stealthy torque strap can be made by using a strip of metal that spans the rubber part of the engine mount. Attached with the existing motor/frame bolts. Not as obvious as the traditional strap.  :2cents:

If I remember right I first heard of this from CP.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.