1970 Challenger TA; clutch pedal

[hemi68charger]

Hello All,
I was curious since this is my first E-body with a manual tranny. On the clutch pedal, there's a tab that sticks out from the pedal up by the pivot point. Isn't there supposed to be a "return" spring? Or, is the return travel controlled by the clutch itself in the bellhousing.... Sorry for the orientation, I took the picture with the camera pointing straight up.

[bigblue73]

Yes there is a clutch return spring.  Send me an e-mail and I will send you the pages from the chassis manual for the clutch pedals.  My e-mail is Illumin8s@hotmail.com

Tony

['Cuda Hunter]

[Chryco Psycho]

No return spring  as such ,  but there is an over center spring that should be there but is often removed , it aids in both depressing the pedal & bringing the pedal back to the top  [OK I can see the picture now , yours has been removed ] , it sits over a button on the pedal  , this is often removed if a diaphragm type clutch is used . There is a spring on the z bar to the belhousing though , the clutch pressure plate pushes back & raises the pedal most of the way up & the overcenter spring pulls the pedal away from the release brg .
 Personally I do not use diaphragm style clutches in these cars as the linkage is not designed to work with them , the pedal feel is wrong & at Higher RPM the pedal can stay on the floor & not return , best to have a rev limiter if you use a diaphragm !!

['Cuda Hunter]

[hemi68charger]

'Cuda Hunter; thanks for the pictures..

I hear that spring is a pain in the tush to get back on..

I must have a diaphragm-type of cluth in the new TA I got. So, even with the diaphragm-type clutch, is it appropriate to try and put the over-center spring back on? Does the other end of the spring attach to the pivot rod I see up inside the assembly?

My question spurs from a friend. He is putting together his original '70 Hemi 'Cuda with 4speed. It has been forever since he had all this stuff together and was curious on how is should go back on...

[Chryco Psycho]

There is a cross pin in the pedal bracket that the spring hooks onto , often removed with the spring , , if you have a diaphragm clutch using the over center spring will not be helpful . I hate the feel of the diaphragms as the pedal rises there seems to be nothing there until you get close to the top & then it seems to snap upward making it hard to engage the clutch smoothly

[anlauto]

NO if you have a diaphragm type clutch you must remove the over center spring.

[Chryco Psycho]

Or remove the diaphragm clutch !!
 Which is typically what I do .

[anlauto]

Or remove the diaphragm clutch !!
 Which is typically what I do .

  I'm with you on that one...Give me an ol' Borg/Beck three finger any time 

[Brillo1974]

There is a cross pin in the pedal bracket that the spring hooks onto , often removed with the spring , , if you have a diaphragm clutch using the over center spring will not be helpful . I hate the feel of the diaphragms as the pedal rises there seems to be nothing there until you get close to the top & then it seems to snap upward making it hard to engage the clutch smoothly

So you are telling me that the diaphragm clutch sucks? If they do then why would Wayne at Brewers sell me one? I did tell him down the road I want to stroke the 360 and he recommended the diaphragm clutch. I want this thing to shift right! Anyone else have some input? Just when I thought I was ready to start the swap. 

[Chryco Psycho]

Diaphragm clutches seem to be the new thing  they do have a lighter pedal feel to them but that is about the only advantage  , pedal travel will usually not match the diaphragm clutch so often a stop is needed so it will not travel too far   , the downside is weird release  the pedal comes up with no pressure & then snaps overcenter suddenly making it hard to engage smoothly  also as above they can also stay released  at high rpm with the pedal staying glued to the floor  ,better have a rev limiter ! These cars were built with 3 finger Borg && Beck type , they have 12 coil springs so pressure can be altered to match load needed  . My Favorite is the McLeod 3 finger Borg & Beck Long type , this has coil springs but with longer fingers for better leverage & lighter pedal pressure  , this is also available in a street twin using 2 discs for max holding power with high torque engines . 
 My 440 Duster street / race car tore up a single disc B&B type clutch in approx 100 miles of driving !
 I believe Centerforce Started using the diaphragm type first for Mopars as they had a gimmicy centrifugal load adder so other companies have adapted diaphragms to compete , the B&B type can add centrifugal load as well by adding bolts through the holes in the release arms .

[Mpdlawdog]

Yes there is a clutch return spring.  Send me an e-mail and I will send you the pages from the chassis manual for the clutch pedals.  My e-mail is Illumin8s@hotmail.com

Tony

I sent you an email...can you please send that to me...I have to take mine apart

[Brillo1974]

Looks like I'm back to the drawing board because I don't need any  problems with the clutch.  I will have to call Wayne and see if I can swap out the diaphragm pressure plate and clutch for the 3 finger since it isn't close to going in yet. I will have to get the over center spring also since I don't have it, more fun getting that on too. Thanks for the info Chryco!

[Brillo1974]

Just curious if you put a stop on the pedal would that not solve the problem of the pedal traveling to far to where it sticks down? Also if you put your stop before over center would that not stop the popping back of the pedal or is this not possible and still have the pressure plate disengage correctly? If this is possible then it would seem to solve all the problems.