1970 Challenger TA; clutch pedal

[Chryco Psycho]

Maybe  I have not worked with them enough to be sure , but I have had the pedal stay on the floor a few times at high RPM

[Topcat]

The trick I did to get the over spring on was using a jack.

Opening the spring using a jack, then stick washers in between the coils.
This'll lengthen it. Put on assembly, then press pedal down and remove washers.

[ShelbyDogg]

 another variation from Herb McCandless:
Put it in a vise, bend it one way, put washers in the coils, bend it the other way, put washers on other side, then back and forth till it slips on, then take washers off with pliers while pushing the  pedal.

I just use my biggest screw driver, hook the spring and eye then pop it on like you are doing a brake shoe spring.

[rUNCHARGER]

I do it the way ShelbyDog does it.

Sheldon

[dodj]

Anyone else have some input? Just when I thought I was ready to start the swap. 

I love my diaphragm clutch. I have had no negative issues with it. IMO, stick with the diaphragm, 3 finger b&b's make city cruising a chore.
Perhaps I don't shift at the extreme rpm's to end up with the issues CP has seen?

[ShelbyDogg]

I love my diaphragm clutch. I have had no negative issues with it. IMO, stick with the diaphragm, 3 finger b&b's make city cruising a chore.
Perhaps I don't shift at the extreme rpm's to end up with the issues CP has seen?

When you're showing off and speed shift into 2nd, my foot doesn't come off the gas too much, if at all.

A diaphram clutch, if fingers are extended just a little too far over center, will hold themselves in with centrifugal pressure and the clutch will stick to the floor.
It happened to a friend of mine when I asked if he missed a shift. He said "my clutch pedal stuck to the floor!"

I always use the 3 finger 10.95", with the centrifugal rollers in them. I also user the 11" disk.  McCleod and Mancini still sells them. If you shake them, you can hear the 3 or 6 rollers rattling inside the pressure plate cover. The faster it spins the harder it grabs.

[Chryco Psycho]

I build & drive these cars at the max so yes I shift at 6000-7000 rpm when they are built for it , at the track I shifted my Duster at 7000 rpm for 9 straight years , I Never want to have a clutch hang on the floor at full throttle even the rev limiter may not prevent engine damage .  I have had the diaphragm clutches hang and not engage  a few times .
 In my case diaphragm belong in the trash bin not in my cars !
The B&B Long seems to be the best compromise with best grip & pedal pressure .
 

[jimynick]

I agree with CP, insofar that I, too, have been in cars where the pedal stuck down using a diaphragm style clutch. While there were millions of GM's built with them, there was also a reason that Mother Mopar didn't use them and if you believe that Wayne at Brewers knows more about the proper clutch to use in a Mopar, than Mopar's engineers, then roll on laddie. Your car, your call. 

[Joe mama]

I had both types of pressure plates on my Hemi Bee. The first time beating on the car with the diaphragm clutch I stunned when the clutch pedal stuck to the floor while shifting it at high RPM'S! After removing the over centering spring that never happened again. With the diaphragm clutch it was much easier driving it on the street because of the reduced pedal pressure but there was too much play at the top of the pedal travel. Like someone mentioned earlier the geometry is not quite right with the diaphragm type. in my opinion the borg & beck has a much better feel because of the full stroke.