Modified Headers, and full custom stainless exhaust

[73restomod]

Ok, so little late but here, but what can I say couple of weeks no days off and 16 hour days.... , but no time for the truly important stuff like family, and of course the mopars!

Here is that nifty little max pipe program.



First pic of cutting down headers. Drivers side shown.



Second pic is of passenger side fitment, also notice each tube is sectioned, every one bolts on individually, and the very tight fit lol.



Last pic is a bottom view of headers on PS side notice #6 is missing here. I will have to make the #8 and #2 pipes tie together, the #6 and #4 will get the same treatment. The #4 will require lots of rework to make it, The #8 & #2 are already placed side by side with the #8 needing some minor tweaking at the low end.



I hope to get more pics up thru the day, as I am working on it now. I am sectioning the drivers side header now to see what kinda crazy that's gonna entail lol.

Edit: changed cylinders around to make less over all work, which is fine as long as you scavenge 1 cylinder fore or aft in firing order for each bank.

[73restomod]

Ok, some more pics here, this is the drivers side, installed after being cut apart. The drivers side is expansive compared to the passenger side, feels roomy. The #5 is just touching the PS gear though, I could just ding it a little and have plenty of room, but I will cut it near the flange and fold the pipe in a bit.



Here is another pic of passenger side note that I marked the tube orders on valve covers as not to forget or mix them up. The #4 will get totally re-routed and follow the #6 up, back, and down. Using some different radiuses to make up the length difference, should work out nicely.



Here is a photo from the bottom of the DS looking up, the #5 & #7 will tie together, I will rotate the #7 towards the front of the car near the top of the primary just out from the flange; then rotate it towards the back about half way between the 1st and 2nd radius. This will move it nice and close to the #5, and redirect the gases towards the rear of the car so flow will merge instead of crash together.

[73restomod]

More work pics, here is the PS #4/#6 section with the first cut done at #4.



Here is the next pic after re-route, #4 is right at 17 inches # 6 falls at 15.5 with the spec of the program. It was a royal pita, but worth it.


Here is a check fit in the car, looking good , and thank god for that, I used photos I had taken earlier as reference, and it all worked out.


Here is a photo from bottom for posterity. For the record that big dinger was there when I got them....but not for long

[73restomod]

Ok, weekend again and more work has been done, here is #2 & #8 tubes after there rerouting, which was minimal; removed # 4 & #6 for clarity.



From the bottom, #2 & #8


Here I started to make the mini collector for the #4 & #6. There was some hammer and dolly work to radius the pipe halves so they would flow with out corners on the inside. The windows will get filled in with more sections when I am done with all fab and it is time for finish welding.



Another view from inside the car mounted up so you can clearance, routing, etc.

[roadman5312]

         Nice work, I'm scribed to this.               

                                                                                     

[73restomod]

Ty for the support Roadman! If anyone was wondering the tubing sizes are 1 7/8" and it steps up to 2", not a large jump like you expect to see in most off the shelf Tri-Y's, and it places me in between the street size tubes and race size tubes that the program suggest. I will doing more work today, so keep eyes peeled, but also have to install some headers on a buds W-250 first lol.

[73restomod]

Ok, so here is the #2 & #8 fully tied together on the bench before going back in the car. Made the mini-collector much the same as I did for  #4 & #6, because of the location I had to radius it right off the bat. Including both views??! 




Here it is in the car, looks like its hitting, but it isn't. It has a fat 1/4 all the way around.





The last pic is with the radius pipe attached to the #4 & #6 pipe, and back in the car I need to make each one meet in 8 inches or less. I will twist them around each other till they are horizontal and in the same plane. The collector piece is a 2 1/2" to 3" funnel, I will get pics of those up shortly.

[73restomod]

Here is a pic of what will be my collectors...



Well, this will be all I will post up for tonight, but there will be more for the morning to be sure.

[73restomod]

Ok, so here is next pic of collectors. I section a 3"-2.5" reducer to make my transition area, made a double barreled piece to simulate the primaries joined, and tack welded it up.



Than I relief cut it so I could actually form the end, and to fill the large gap the forming created I used a bit of TIG rod as a filler and MIG welded it. I will wash the welds with the TIG later to make a nice joint.



Here is the collector after washing the welds with the TIG, and another with the stand-in removed.





Here is another pic showing it from another angle with a little more metal finishing done. If your wondering why I am leaving open spots the answer is simple, it allows me to weld in the filler pieces from the inside with my baby TIG torch.

[73restomod]

Here is a pic of the sections that join the primary's at the last Y of the Tri-Y's. I finally got motivated and bought another Argon bottle so I could run my TIG and MIG simultaneously, so on these I fully welded the sections in between them  with TIG before installing them.



Another view, from the side this time.



I then tacked up the Collector, the angle is good, and it points the exhaust right at the clearance humps in the trans-cross-member; but, it makes an odd angle at the top of the joint with the primary tubes. I will have to fix this once I can remove them from the car for finish welding. probably have to make some metal sections that will let this transition smoothly.



Here is a pic from just below the frame rail so you can see how "low" my exhaust will hang when I'm done. 

[73restomod]

Lol, this thread has been idle long enough...

So, I finished the drivers side, didn't take to many photos, and I have spent many hours fitting, checking, tweaking, and cursing..
I only have to pull the headers so I can finish welding about 8 joints per side, and then send them out to Jet Hot (located here in PA) to have them titanium ceramic coated, my estimate including shipping was $450.00, and carries a lifetime warranty. I had pics, of finished drivers side on old phone, but it crapped the bed on me before I could upload to Photobucket. Tonight or tomorrow I will get new pics to post for viewing.
I think I have around 80-90 hours wrapped up in these right about now, and I figure I will have about 20 more before they are complete; however, its worth it to me. The fit is awesome, they tuck up so nicely to the car. After, I get them finish welded I will be one doctor diff relocation kit from driving it. 

Top View:
 

Bottom View:


Soon to follow I will finally be posting a sound video for those interested. One with open headers and one with the Borla's.

[HP_Cuda]

Wow really nice work.

I really want to see how that collector will come together on the drivers side.

I'm sure within a year I'll want some custom headers made for my Green Cuda as it will let the engine flow even better.

['Cuda Hunter]

Sweet.  Missed it up til now.  I'm in. 

[TelisSE440]

Nice work there. I find it really difficult to make these tight corrections.

[73restomod]

Here is other pics, that I once had prior...



This is the only part on the drivers side I am not happy with, but I will fix it once the header is out of the car. I plan on sectioning a tight radius on the outer half, from a section of tube from a cheap E-bay header score lol.



Here is the piece i need to fix it.



I just got the engine out and the headers on the bench tonight, tomorrow much welding and finishing shall commence.