70 Challenger Conv. Resto Mod-6.1 Hemi

[brads70]

If you use jackstands in front of the rear wheels in just the right spot you can lift the front of the car by hand.

[soundcontrol]

Success, that was a cool way of getting the engine out! Not as easy as it seemed on other peoples pictures, but my main problems were to dissasemble the parts thats not been touched for 44 years, K-frame bolts took forever to get out, very rusty, thought I would bend the frame at one point. Next time I will make a lift tool that hooks up to the bumber mount holes in the frame, (US Car Tool sells one) since the engine hoist wheels was kinda in the way and it was a bit tricky to roll it out.


Brad, yes that would work, I noticed that the car is not that heavy in the front, a bodybuilder could probably lift it as is...
but I was by myself today so it was not an option.

[CudamanTom]

Very cool. 

[soundcontrol]

A little bit of progeress today, I got the engine up in my stand. Can anyone ID my 340? I assume is a -72, according to the casting numbers I can find, is there any other number I should check? Serial number is unreadable during to paint, I will remove the paint later and look at it.
I read somewhere that you can tell if the crank is cast or forged by looking at the balancer, I dont know what it should look like, my converter did not have any balancing weights on it though. Removed the bracket for the power steering pump, those bolts seem to go right in the coolant area, no wonder it leaks water, no sealer at all on the bolts there.

[soundcontrol]

When I bought the car I had no idea what shape the engine was in, taking the heads off now I see I have +030 TRW L2316 forged pistons, and the cylinders seems fine with no edges. Camshaft and lifters seems fine. Heads are probably from a 360, casing number says 340 or 360 but there is a big 360 cast on there also. Gonna see if I can figure out what camshaft I have tomorrow, and take the oilpan off and check the crank and bearings.


Now, taking off the left head I get a bunch of coolant all over the place, seems like the head gasket (Feel-Pro I think) blocks a coolant channel so it stays in there, Is that correct? (or did someone use a wrong type of gasket). Found lots of problems taking it apart, a cracked sparkplug, double header gaskets (been leaking) 2 headerbolts broken so I have to drill them out later, big bolt holding the balancer on the crank loose (so the balancer was loose also) , intake bolts missing etc.


The number, on the lower right edge by the engine mount, is that a part of a VIN for the car it was in originally?

[rUNCHARGER]

Engine is out of a 73 car, those are forged 10-1 (nominal) pistons. I couldn't quite see the balancer to see if it was for forged or cast crank. 587's are 360 small valve heads I believe. They will wake up with 2.02 intakes and a light cleanup of the ports. I'm not a smallblock guy but hopefully this helps a bit.

Sheldon

[rUNCHARGER]

Yes you are correct that those are the last #'s of the VIN on the oil pan rail. The first 3 indicates the year of the car, B is Hammtramck.

Sheldon

[soundcontrol]

Thanks Sheldon, I guess I'll see what crank I have when I open it up, didn't get to it today.

[soundcontrol]

Started a new thread on my 340 here:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=105027.new#new

Seems like my crank is forged.

[soundcontrol]

Blasted some small parts today, including the LCA's, now, does the adjustment arm in the center of the LCA (that the torision bar adjustment screw is moving) come loose when I get the LCA rubber bushings and pin out? Reason I ask is that when I move the adjuster, I can feel that a lot of sand came in between there after blasting. I need to clean it out.

[1 Wild R/T]

At won't come loose, it was put in place before the arm was welded together... Rotate the torsion bar anchor in the arm a little & most of the sand will fall out pretty quickly... Since the anchor doesn't move in the arm when the car is assembled it's not an issue anyway...

[soundcontrol]

At won't come loose, it was put in place before the arm was welded together... Rotate the torsion bar anchor in the arm a little & most of the sand will fall out pretty quickly... Since the anchor doesn't move in the arm when the car is assembled it's not an issue anyway...

Aha, thanks! Found this good article, gonna weld in those reinforcement plates and install my greasable pins and new bushings.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/155-0306-control-arms/

[brads70]

Aha, thanks! Found this good article, gonna weld in those reinforcement plates and install my greasable pins and new bushings.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/155-0306-control-arms/

I found this to be useful too, didn't know if you had seen it before?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwes-SP8u4w&feature=share&list=UUqvjc-8llEE-JKNFYw30-NQ&index=3

[soundcontrol]

Good one! I'm glad my LCAs are very tight there.

[soundcontrol]

Aha, thanks! Found this good article, gonna weld in those reinforcement plates and install my greasable pins and new bushings.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/155-0306-control-arms/

It was a piece of cake to remove the bushings with this method, weld a washer on the outer shell and use a press. Took 5 minutes.