Burning oil/ could it be valve seals or guides

[Kevin71]

My wife the cranking assistant left the ignition on and ran the battery down.  So I am at a standstill until it charges. 

[Kevin71]

I have managed to get one side done. Dry #1  200 then bleeds down to 180;  #3 210 then just bleeds down to 0 after 1 minute;  #5 220 then bleeds down to 210 : #7 210 then bleeds down to 150;
Oil  #1 280 then drops to 260 and slowly continues to bleed down to 0:  #3 240 and holds;#5 230 and holds: #7 240 and holds, but after 10 seconds starts to bleed down.

The other side of the engine is going to be real hard to get to some of the plugs so I thought I would post these numbers and see what everyone thought.  If it's bad no sense in doing the other side if I am going to have redo the rings one side.
Does this tell me anything

[Chryco Psycho]

if the gauge is working properly it should not be bleeding back down .
 Might as well pull the engine down , if you are gaining 40% with oil in the cylinders you have a problem with rings

[Kevin71]

If it is bleeding down would that be a sign that the rings are leaking?

[Kevin71]

Also isn't 220 - 280 very high?  I see other post 160 to 180?

[Chryco Psycho]

No , the piston is at top dead center 10 times / second at 600 rpm , so no time for the pressure to escape / bleed down , but if the pressure is up that much adding oil the rings are not sealing for sure .
 Typical readings are around 220 max & generally lower on street / pump gas engines , @ 280 PSI you should be running race gas But the gauge may not be accurate if it is a cheap gauge , but as long as the gauge is repeatable & getting the same readings every time you are ok using it

[734406pk]

I have managed to get one side done. Dry #1  200 then bleeds down to 180;  #3 210 then just bleeds down to 0 after 1 minute;  #5 220 then bleeds down to 210 : #7 210 then bleeds down to 150;
Oil  #1 280 then drops to 260 and slowly continues to bleed down to 0:  #3 240 and holds;#5 230 and holds: #7 240 and holds, but after 10 seconds starts to bleed down.

The other side of the engine is going to be real hard to get to some of the plugs so I thought I would post these numbers and see what everyone thought.  If it's bad no sense in doing the other side if I am going to have redo the rings one side.
Does this tell me anything
[/quote
From your readings we have #1 at 200/280 = 40%, #3 at 210/240 = 14% , #5 at 220/230 = 4% and #7 at 210/240 = 14%. The pressure bleeding down is the gauge leaking. What is odd is cyl #1 is the lowest dry and the highest wet. I would retest #1 and repost. Make sure the battery is fully charged to get a consistent cranking speed.

[Kevin71]

I unbolted the headers last night.  I am going to pull them out and that will give me room to check the other side.  I think I will go thru this one more time before I pull this engine.  I am going to try to get to it this afternoon.  I have some work I have to get done first.  Got to make some money to feed this animal.  It takes alot to keep a mopar going.  My wife says mopar stands for more parts.   

[734406pk]

OK. Too bad you have to remove the headers for this, but it must be done. When you removed the spark plugs from the drivers side bank, what did the firing ends look like? Also be sure to use the same amount of oil in each of the cylinders when doing the "wet test" for consistent results. Good luck!

[Kevin71]

All of the plugs are black.  I am not even sure how much oil I am putting in.  I got a little squirt can with a hose on it and just start pumping it.  When ever I have turned it over checking a different cylinder no oil is coming out of the plug hole. 

[734406pk]

Just two or three squirts of oil per cylinder for the wet test. Too much oil will raise the compression ratio and give a false high pressure reading. Were these plugs changed when the crank,bearings and rings were replaced?

[Kevin71]

I honestly don't think the shop actually replaced anything at this point.  They said they did then couldn't get the rings to set and just told me that they didn't have time or desire to work on it any longer to pick it up.  And I owed them nothing.  Now if they did what they said surely they would have wanted something.  I know they did pull the engine because I was down there a couple of months ago and it was on a engine stand. 
Oil amount like 2 tablespoons.  Maybe thats why the readings went over 200.  If I crank it over a dozen times would the cylinder push enough oil out to be dry?  And redo all of the compression checks?

[jimynick]

Can you lay your hands on a borescope? You know, the viewers that have a flexible cable that you insert, with usually a screen on the handle to see what the end sees? If you can, I'd do so and have a gander at what the inside of those cylinders look like before you get into tearing the engine out. CP's right that such a big difference -wet versus dry doesn't bode well for the ring seal. As for the oil, just leave it alone, it'll leak down by itself eventually. Also, when a professional (allegedly) machine shop throws up their hands and says come and get it, that's a huge flag. I'd save everything to do with this engine (bills, email, phone records, etc.) and the shop and you may wish to consult an attorney regarding what may be substandard work here.

[734406pk]

Ok sounds like too much oil. Crank the engine over with the starter for 10-15 seconds with sparkplugs removed & lay out some rags near the spark plug holes. Excess oil should spray out. You can then repeat the compression test on all cylinders. Do you feel that the shop pulled out the engine and reinstalled it without replacing anything? Have the carb jets been changed?

[734406pk]

The compression gauge may be inaccurate and a lot more oil was in #1 cylinder throwing off the wet reading. I would try another dry/wet test on all cylinders to get some accurate info on a cold engine.