Burning oil/ could it be valve seals or guides

[Kevin71]

Well I got the last message to late.  I pulled the intake.  There is no wetness of oil on the intake runners.  I didn't pull the pan, yet but there isn't any gasket or RTV on this thing.  Could it be bring a mist into the intake runner on the head and just not enough to leave a trail on the floor of the runner?  Oh I could still do a compression check as long as I haven't pulled the heads correct.  I have never done one so I'll to read up on what to do.  I do the gauge.  I guess I though I would need one one day.  Todays the day.  Hot damn.  It's never to late to teach a old dog a new trick after all.  Just got to get off the porch.  Any advice on the compression check and leak down?

[Chryco Psycho]

I would definatly do the compression test before going deeper , it can tell you a lot without tearing into it . I would do a wet dry compression test , simple & not costly , do a dry compression test first  get all the #s then go back &  squirt in a small amount of oil & redo the compression test , if the #s do not rise then the rings are fine , a leak down test will tell you the same thing but the tool is more expensive & harder to borrow .
 If the intake runners are clean the oil is not going in there , oil will leave a black stain unless you are flooding the engine & washing it down with gas .
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[734406pk]

Jimnick you are 100% correct. Do your tests before disassembly. I've been "hands-on" as they say in the engine service business for over 35 years and we deal with this issue from time to time. High oil consumption problems may be one of the most difficult to find but it is fixable. The engine wasn't designed to burn oil, something has been missed in prior inspection. It's not likely that your oil consumption is caused by the intake manifold gasket due the the design but this can be tested (it's slightly complicated measurement process but do-able with common tools). I suggest a compression/ cylinder leakage test done first and record the data. We are here to help and this can be repaired.

[734406pk]

Since the intake manifold is off, I can explain the measurement procedure for checking parallel-ism between the cylinder head and intake so you may make progress to solution.

[cudabob496]

Well I got the last message to late.  I pulled the intake.  There is no wetness of oil on the intake runners.  I didn't pull the pan, yet but there isn't any gasket or RTV on this thing.  Could it be bring a mist into the intake runner on the head and just not enough to leave a trail on the floor of the runner?  Oh I could still do a compression check as long as I haven't pulled the heads correct.  I have never done one so I'll to read up on what to do.  I do the gauge.  I guess I though I would need one one day.  Todays the day.  Hot damn.  It's never to late to teach a old dog a new trick after all.  Just got to get off the porch.  Any advice on the compression check and leak down?

How do the back of the intake valves look? If they are gunked up, I would assume its valve guides or seals?

[cudabob496]

another source of oil consumption is the 3/8 PCV line coming off the top
of the valve cover.  It was significant for me, and I had to reduce the PCV line
to 1/8, modify the baffle under the valve cover, and install an oil separator.
For 20 miles of driving, I may get a tablespoon of oil out of the separator.

First detected the oil in the PCV system by putting a clear glass gas filter in the
PCV line, and saw oil building up inside it!

[Kevin71]

I have a inexpensive compression tester.  Have never used it.  So do I take all the plugs out.  Start with #1 screw it on and turn the crank by hand.  How do I know I have turned far enough.  Then unscrew and squirt what 10w40 in the cylinder.  How much a teaspoon.  That seems like it will be hard to do.  Also the PVC connects into a vacum port on the rear of the intake.  Checked the runner on the inside no oil residue.  I am going to try and get some pictures of the valves.   

[Kevin71]

Can't really get a pic.  Can get light camera all lined up.  But the buttom of the stem is black.  Brownish coming up toward the top.  The motor only has maybe 2 miles on it.  But it has run real rich.  The mechanic change the jets from 94's down to a 80 in the front and 84's in the rear of a 850 quick fuel.  So I don't know if the running rich would cause the intake valve stems to be so black.  But what you can see of the back of the intake valve looks black and oil.  Can't finger that deep to wipe on it and see if it's oil. 

[cudabob496]

maybe a longer something can scrape a little off the top on the intake valve, but there
should be no blackish oil there, if things are ok.  Were your valve guides or seals worked on?
Do all intake valves have the same black oil residue, or is it just a few or one?

Maybe you can use one of those little round inspection mirrors and a flashlight, to see the
top of the intake valve?

[734406pk]

Before taking the compression test you will need to disconnect the coil wire to the distributor and securely ground it to the block (with a jumper wire if you have one). Also the fuel feed line to the carb must be capped off so fuel doesn't spray out when cranking the engine. Remove all 8 spark plugs and lay them out in order. Look at the condition of the plugs. If some are oily etc. make note of which cylinders they came from. Screw the compression gauge into #1 cylinder and crank the engine counting 6 compression strokes. Record this compression reading, then move to cylinder #3 and do the same. Continue on to the rest of the cylinders, recording the readings until all 8 have been tested. You may need to have a battery charger hooked up to the battery to keep it fully charged. This way the cranking rpm will be constant and you will get an accurate reading on all cylinders. After you have all 8 compression readings taken and recorded, then you are ready for the wet compression test. You will need an oil can with a flexible nozzle. Will the oil can with 10w30 or whatever oil you are using in the engine. Starting again with #1 cylinder, squirt 2-3 shots of the oil in the spark plug hole and take a compression reading. Record and move to the next cylinder and repeat until all 8 have been tested. Post these readings. Good luck + safety glasses!

[cudabob496]

Before taking the compression test you will need to disconnect the coil wire to the distributor and securely ground it to the block (with a jumper wire if you have one). Also the fuel feed line to the carb must be capped off so fuel doesn't spray out when cranking the engine. Remove all 8 spark plugs and lay them out in order. Look at the condition of the plugs. If some are oily etc. make note of which cylinders they came from. Screw the compression gauge into #1 cylinder and crank the engine counting 6 compression strokes. Record this compression reading, then move to cylinder #3 and do the same. Continue on to the rest of the cylinders, recording the readings until all 8 have been tested. You may need to have a battery charger hooked up to the battery to keep it fully charged. This way the cranking rpm will be constant and you will get an accurate reading on all cylinders. After you have all 8 compression readings taken and recorded, then you are ready for the wet compression test. You will need an oil can with a flexible nozzle. Will the oil can with 10w30 or whatever oil you are using in the engine. Starting again with #1 cylinder, squirt 2-3 shots of the oil in the spark plug hole and take a compression reading. Record and move to the next cylinder and repeat until all 8 have been tested. Post these readings. Good luck + safety glasses!

should engine be warmed up first?

[Chryco Psycho]

it can be warm or cold , warm the rings are expanded & will seal better but it is also harder to get the plugs out without burning yourself & with the intake off it will be harder to start LOL

[734406pk]

The engine ideally should be warmed up to op temp before testing, but I believe the intake manifold has been taken off already. Cold readings will be a bit lower, but useful in diagnosis. Also I should point out that the wet test will make a mess. The left over oil in the cylinders will spray out al over the place, so be ready with rags, paper towels etc.

[jimynick]

All good advice, but I note you mentioned about how to crank the engine and hope you got, that you use the starter. This may require 2 people or use a jumper switch to the starter solenoid. In a pinch, thread the tester in, hold the gauge up with a wire and crank it yourself. You're looking for consistency here and the old rule of thumb was no more of a variation in readings than 10- and some will say 15%, of the highest reading. IE: a high of 150psi would indicate you don't want to see less than 135 for the lowest reading. Capice? 

[cudabob496]

so maybe running overly rich for the first 1500 miles (#94s on primaries) prevented the rings
from sealing properly?

but black oil on the top of the intakes, and using a lot of oil, is what I had, when the guides were inproperly installed
on my Stage VI heads